Impatiens

7:45:17 AM EDT

     Everyone Should Grow Impatiens

Posted on Jun 2, 2007 9:00:00 AM

Sorry if I brag a little but my impatiens are beautiful.  It's one flower that's so easy to grow and very versatile too. The only thing needed is shade.

Everyone has some shade - don't they?  It may be a porch, balcony or a big area under a tree or the north side of the home.  If you do, you are going to love impatiens.

I grow my impatiens in containers so the nematodes won't get them.  I guess this is the one real problem with this flower.  The root knot nematodes find them when planted in the ground.  These microscopic round worms cause the roots to swell and then the plants decline.

Planting impatiens in containers solves the nematode problem plus I can set the containers where ever I need them.  This is one creative idea I learned from the theme parks.  Container gardens are mobile.   As needed they can be moved about or when they start to look bad they can be replaced. 

Starting an impatiens planting is easy and inexpensive.  If you have a container and the soil you can create an attractive planting for about $4.00.   I like to start mine in 12 to 20 inch shallow containers.  The root systems don't need a lot of room.  There is one impatiens set in the middle and 3 around the sides.

Go ahead and use just one color if you wish or mix several together.   These can be very colorful containers.  Most likely you are not going to be able to stop at one container and that is OK too. I like to make clusters of 3 or more containers to really get attention.

Now here are few tips.  Keep the soil moist.  Check it daily.  There is nothing sadder than a wilted pot of impatiens.  Then add a slow release fertilizer to the container.  This saves you lots of time by avoiding  those weekly feedings.   One application of a slow release fertilizer can feed the plants for up to nine months depending on the product selected.

I am adding lots of impatiens to my shady sites -- how about you?

http://blogs.orlandosentinel.com/features_gardening_blog/2007/06/everyone_should.html

Tags: impatiens, container garden, care

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1:17:44 AM EDT

Impatiens good plant for those with shady yards

Shady areas often lack color. The reason is most blooming plants need a good amount of sunlight to produce carbohydrates needed to make blooms. There are plants, however, that bloom well in the shade. One of the best examples are impatiens.

Impatiens come in a wide variety of colors. They bloom well with very little light, provided you give them a little moisture and continue to feed them to keep them vigorous.

Impatiens come in a single blooming form and a double blooming, or rosebud, form. The rosebud type is attractive viewed up close, but if you want to view from a distance, use the single blooming types.

Also, when viewing something from a distance, it's better to use a large swath of color rather than mixing up a whole bunch of colors that get lost when you see them from a distance.

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8:51:22 AM EDT

   Double Impatiens 

Cameo, Doublet, & Tioga® (Impatiens walleriana)

Through these three different series of impatiens, there are many options for the grower. The Tiogas and Cameos are series of double impatiens that offer both compact and standard plant habits. They are all self branching and hold the flowers well above the foliage. Both series are well suited for production in 4”-6” pots and 1 gallon containers. The Doublets are a uniquely double flowering series with a vigorous habit. They are best grown in 6” and 1 gallon containers. Typical crop timing for all three series is 9-17 weeks including time in propagation.

Double Impatiens is available from the Paul Ecke Ranch as an unrooted or rooted cutting.

Propagation

Double Impatiens can be propagated in various tray sizes including 72,84, and 105’s.

Media

• Choose a well-drained aerated propagation media
• Avoid media containing peat moss which will hold too much water
• Choose a blended media with other components or inorganic media such as Oasis® or Rockwool®

Bottom Heat

• Bottom heat will promote healthy root development.
• Maintain bottom heat at 70-75°F/21-24°C.
• Mist will cool the media temperature. Monitor media temperature closely and frequently.

Rooting Hormones

• Double Impatiens will benefit from the use of a rooting hormone. Time to root and uniformity in rooting will be improved with use of a hormone.
• Either liquid or powder formulations work equally well. Choose a product with up to 2500 ppm IBA or up to 500 ppm NAA.

Misting

• Average days with mist vary from 6-9 days depending on environmental conditions in the greenhouse.
• Mist cuttings so they remain turgid but avoid over misting that results in saturated media.
• Over misting will result in slow rooting and possible problems with root rot and botrytis.

Pinching

• Pinch cuttings in week two of propagation to prevent stretch and promote branching.

Growth Regulating

• To prevent stretch apply B-Nine®at 2500 ppm
• Sprays are most effective when applied after the pinch as new shoots are forming.

Propagation Cycle: 4 weeks

Growing On........

Media
Choose a media with the following traits:

• Good aeration
• Porosity between 5-15%
• Sterile

Irrigation/Fertilization

• Avoid excess irrigation and fertilization while plants are establishing which can lead to slow root development. Established plants should not be allowed to dry excessively which will result in leaf yellowing and leaf drop.
• Fertilizer Regime
  • Begin fertilizing 2 weeks after transplant.
  • Choose a complete balanced fertilizer complete with minor elements.
  • A periodic feeding of 200 ppm constant liquid feed.
  • Avoid fertilizers high in ammoniacal nitrogen.
  • Reduce fertilization to 100 ppm when flower buds are visible to enhance flowering. Resume higher concentrations after flowering is complete.
  • A slow release product may also be used to supplement a constant liquid feed program and may provide improved performance for the consumer.
• Maintain pH between 5.5-6.3
• Optimum EC is 1.5 to 2.0 mmhos. Provide periodic clear water application if excess salts accumulate.

Temperature/Humidity

Temperature regime:

Establishing temperature: 65°F/18°C average daily temperature

Temperatures for growing on: 55-75°F/13-24°C day and 50-65°F/10-18°C night temperatures.

Relative Humidity:
Maintain relative humidity below 70% and provide good air circulation to avoid problems with botrytis.

Light
Provide:

• 5000 foot candles/53,800 lux minimum
• 6000 foot candles/64,600 lux maximum

* Shade may be required to avoid high temperatures but can encourage stretch and delay flowering.
*Plants grown outdoors in full sun stay compact and may yellow in response to high light.

Spacing
Establish plants pot tight than space to:

• 4” pots – 5-6” centers (approximately 2 per sq. ft.)
• 6” pots/1 gallon – 14” centers
• 8” pots – 18” centers

Pinching
1st Pinch- week 2 of propagation
2nd Pinch- Tiogas and Cameos are free branching and should not require and additional pinch. Overgrown plants may be trimmed. Mature plants typically bloom within 4-6 weeks after trimming depending on the severity of the cut.

Plant Growth Regulators
Cultural management offers the most effective methods of preventing stretch. Adequate spacing, controlled temperatures and DIF, soil moisture management and good light all promote compact, quality growth.

• If needed Bonzi® as a spray at 2-5 ppm or as a drench at 0.5 ppm is effective at controlling stretch.

Insect and Disease Concerns
Insects

• Fungus Gnats
• Spider Mites
• Thrips

Diseases

• Bacterial Leaf Spot
• Botrytis
• Myrothecium
• Root and stem rots
• Viruses

For recommended chemical controls for disease and insects please consult The Flower Fields Federal Disease Control Chart (463K) and The Flower Fields Federal Insect & Mite Control Chart (541K) at www.ecke.com. Always consult the chemical’s label for rates, mixing instructions and restriction

http://www.ecke.com/datasheets/ff_ffx_tio.html

              

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12:09:03 PM EDT

  New Impatiens Introductions 

From Marie Iannotti,
Your Guide to Gardening.

Impatiens are a garden favorite because they deliver long lasting color in shade. Reds, pinks, lavenders and pure white Impatiens will brighten any dark corner throughout the growing season. Impatiens have indeed become a garden standard.

The breeders at Ball Horticultural Company have recently introduced two new series of Impatiens that are testing very positively. They are both released under the Simply Beautiful brand name: Simply Beautiful Fusion™ series and Simply Beautiful Fanfare™ series.

Simply Beautiful Fusion            

The Fusion Impatiens series has the distinction of offering the first yellow Impatiens flowers. It took breeders years to isolate and stabilize Fusion Impatiens ‘Glow’ from its wild parent, but it was worth the effort.

From their efforts creating ‘Glow’ came a whole series of exotic warm colors. Fusion ‘Radiance’ is coral with a rust center. Fusion ‘Infrared’ is a darker coral with shades of yellow and orange. Then there’s Fusion ‘Sunset’ in apricot witha maroon center and Fusion ‘Heat’ which is a stunning rusty orange with a yellow center. The series looks almost tropical.

 The Fusion series still has the non-stop blooming power of traditional Impatiens, but the flowers are an interesting cup shape with a deeper colored center. Ball likens them to orchid shaped flowers.

Mature plants will reach 12 - 16" in height and width.

Maintenance of the Fusion Impatiens Series

The Fusion series is as undemanding as common Impatiens, but since these annual flowers are going to bloom until frost, you’ll want to give them a rich, well drained soil to grow in.

• You can amend the soil with organic matter or use a slow-release fertilizer when planting.
• Mulch after planting and give them a light feeding every 6 - 8 weeks.
• Fusion Impatiens enjoy a little sun in the morning, but prefer afternoon shade.
• Heat and humidity don’t seem to faze them.
• If they should begin to look leggy toward the end of summer, Fusion Impatiens can be rejuvenated by shearing them back by about 1/3. New growth and flowers will follow shortly.              

To find a garden center that carries the Fusion Impatiens Series, check the Simply Beautiful website. Keep reading to learn about the trailing Fanfare Impatiens Series.

Perfect for Hanging Around in the Shade

Simply Beautiful Fanfare        

   The Fanfare Impatiens series comes in 6 colors: Fuchsia, Blush, Lavender, Orange, Pink Sparkle and the latest, Bright Coral. Mature plants reach a height of 16 - 20" and can spread up to 2 feet.

Maintenance of the Fanfare Impatiens Series

• You can amend the soil with organic matter or use a slow-release fertilizer when planting.
• Mulch after planting and give them a light feeding every 6 - 8 weeks.
• Fusions Impatiens enjoy a little sun in the morning, but prefer afternoon shade.
• Heat and humidity don’t seem to faze them.
• If they should begin to look leggy toward the end of summer, Fusion Impatiens can be rejuvenated by shearing them back by about 1/3. New growth and flowers will follow shortly.

To find a garden center that carries the Fanfare Impatiens Series, check the Simply Beautiful website

 

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3:14:46 PM EDT

NEW GUINEA IMPATIENS

Scientific Name: Impatiens × hybrida (I. Hawkeri)

Common Name: New Guinea Impatiens

Family: Balsaminaceae

Dr. J. Raymond Kessler, Jr.

Auburn University

Uses

New Guinea Impatiens have only recently become popular bedding plants since their introduction to the U.S. in 1972. Most are grown in hanging baskets or as potted plants for transplanting into the landscape or as container plants for the patio or window boxes. The majority of cultivars are currently propagated vegetatively, although seed-propagated cultivars have recently come to the market (Spectra F₁ hybrids).

                       Breeding

The origin of New Guinea Impatiens started with a joint plant collecting expedition by Longwood Gardens and the USDA in 1970. Several plants were brought back form New Guinea and ordinally given separate species names. However, cytogenetic work has shown that they belong to one species (Impatiens hawkeri) but a lot of variation exists within the species. Crosses with additional species form Java and the Celebes islands has lead to the plants in production today.

The first commercial series was called the Circus series, released in 1972. Since that time numerous series comprised of a hundred cultivars have been released. Most cultivars are patented, so do not take cuttings unless your a licensed propagator. Recent breeding have concentrated on shorter plants, shorted production times, heat and water stress tolerance, and variation in flower and foliage size and color.

                  Propagation

Growers may start a New Guinea Impatiens crop in three ways: 1) Order cutting to grow stock plants from which cutting are taken for production, 3) Order unrooted cuttings to root in-house for production, or 3) Order rooted cuttings which are transplanted to the finishing container. It is essential to order the highest quality propagation material that is certified free of disease. New Guinea Impatiens can suffer from tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) and impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) carried in the tissues.

Everything associated with propagation should be sanitized; sterile medium, clear (new) flats, sterile bench tops, and sterilize anything that comes in contact with the cuttings. Many different kinds of propagation media have been used; peat-lite media, vermiculite, perlite, rockwool, but all must be well-drained and not remain saturated. Propagation medium pH should be 5.5 to 6.5 with a low soluble salts (<0.75 mmhos/cm). Light levels in propagation should be 2000 ft.ca. New Guinea Impatiens cuttings should be ¾- to 1-inch long, with no more than 2 fully expanded leaves and 3-4 immature leaves, with -½" stem base to stick into the propagation medium. Propagation temperature are 70-72F night and 75F days, preferably provided as bottom-heat to warm the propagation medium. Mist intervals range from every 15 min. on sunny days to 2 hours on cloudy days for 5 seconds depending on the environmental conditions. Mist at night is usually not required and may be harmful. Propagation timing:

5 to 7 days Callus forms at base of cutting, high mist, temperature during this period.

10 to 12 days Roots about ¼", reduce mist to about every ½ hour.

3 to 4 weeks Roots adequately developed for transplanting.

Transplant as soon as the cuttings are well rooted to prevent stretching. Fertilizer or growth retardants are not needed in propagation.

 Growing-On                  

Transplanting: The backbone of New Guinea Impatiens production for most growers is the 4" or 4½" pot with one rooted cutting per pot, though 5" and 6" pots may be produced depending on market demand. Five inch pots may have 1 or 2 cuttings and 6" pots 1 to 3 cuttings per pot depending on cutting costs verses production timing. New Guinea Impatiens may also be grown in Jumbo finishing flats or 3-3½" pots for the mass market. Hanging baskets of New Guinea Impatiens are also popular with 1 to 3 cuttings per 8" basket, 1 to 4 cuttings per 10" basket, or 3 to 5 cuttings per 12" plastic basket.

Medium: Use a peat-lite medium composed of peat and perlite, vermiculite, bark, or rockwool. The medium should be well-drained and aerated, but with slightly more water holding capacity than for some crops. Impatiens as a rule require a lot of water and should never wilt, extra water holding capacity facilitates this goal. Dolomitic lime to a pH of 5.8 to 6.2, superphosphate (4.5 lbs./yd3) , and micronutrients (½-¾ recommended rate) are added to the medium at mixing. Medium pH should not drop below 5.8, especially if manganese and iron concentrations are above 3.0-5.0 ppm because New Guinea Impatiens are sensitive to micronutrient toxicity.

Fertilization: Little or no fertilization is required until the roots of plants in the final container reach the pot margins. Fertilizer on a CLF program at 100-150 ppm nitrogen with the nitrogen level about equal to potassium (150-0-150 to 200-0-200) with no phosphate if superphosphate was added during mixing. If superphosphate was not added to the medium, liquid feed with 50 to 75 ppm P. If fertilizer is not applied at every watering, use 300 to 350 ppm N, 100 ppm P, and 300 to 350 K every third watering. Be careful using a fertilizer containing micronutrients if they were added during media mixing. Micronutrient toxicity cause necrosis of lower leaves or leaf margins, shoot die-back, or distorted, stunted upper leaves. Magnesium deficiency is common and may be corrected using 8 oz. Magnesium sulfate / 100 gal. once per month.

Temperature: Night temperatures should be 68F and day temperatures 75F for the first 2 to 3 weeks. The night temperature can then be dropped to 65F. Night temperatures above 72F can delay flowering. New Guinea Impatiens respond to DIF. Stem lengths increase as the day temperature increase relative to the night temperature (positive DIF).

Photoperiod: No significant response found.

Light: New Guinea Impatiens tolerate higher light intensities than bedding Impatiens. As much light as possible should be provided in the winter and spring. Provide a minimum of 3000-4000 foot-candles during the middle of the day. Low light reduces varigation in the foliage and slows flowering. Apply shading if light exceeds 6000 foot-candles.

Pinching: Newer cultivars are self-branching and require no pinching. Pinching will delay bloom by two to three weeks.

Growth Retardants: Generally not required or used on New Guinea Impatiens. Cycocel, B-Nine, and A-Rest show minimal effect, however, Bonzi is effective at 5 to 30 ppm.

Supplemental Light and Carbon Dioxide: Supplemental light from HID lamps benefits growth at 400 ft.ca. after rooting in propagation. Supplemental carbon dioxide also improves growth at 1000-1500 ppm. A 2-3F increase in day temperature should be used with supplemental CO₂.

Spacing: Spacing too close will result in stretching. Newely potted cutting can be maintained pot-to-pot until the canopies begin to close.

Common Problems      

Physiological: Low light and low fertility cause mottled foliage. Water stress causes leaf and flower bud abscision.

Pests: Spider mites, cyclamen mites, thrips, mealybugs, and aphids all infest New Guinea Impatiens

Diseases: Pythium, Phytophthora, and all cause root rots. Rhizoctonia causes stem rots. Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus (INSV) can be very serious and the virus is carried by Thrips. Botrytis can be a problem under cool, humid conditions.

Scheduling                   

Varies with geographic location, container size, cultivar, climate, and number of cuttings per container, e.g. 4" pots can be finished in 8-10 weeks in warmer times of the year while requiring 10-16 weeks in low-light, cooler times of the year.

Auburn EDU

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11:44:51 PM EST

                Impatiens from Wikipedia     

Impatiens is a genus of about 900-1000 species of flowering plants in the family Balsaminaceae. The genus has a wide distribution throughout the northern hemisphere and tropics, although they are not found in South America.

Some species are annual plants and produce flowers from early summer until the first frost, while perennial species, found in milder climates, can flower all year. They can exist both in, and out, of direct sunlight. Some Impatiens hybrids have commercial importance as garden plants with a yearly business volume of about US $230 million.

Major common names for one or more species include balsam, jewelweed and busy lizzie.

The plant derives its scientific name Impatiens ("impatient") and the common name "touch-me-not" from the plant's seed pods. When the seed pods mature, they "explode" when touched, sending seeds several meters away. This mechanism is also known as "explosive dehiscence". See also Rapid plant movement.

Selected species

• Impatiens arguta
• Impatiens auricoma
• Impatiens balfourii - Kashmir Balsam
• Impatiens balsamina - Rose Balsam
• Impatiens bicornuta
• Impatiens campanulata
• Impatiens capensis - Spotted Jewelweed, Orange Balsam
• Impatiens chinensis
• Impatiens cristata
• Impatiens edgeworthii
• Impatiens flaccida
• Impatiens glandulifera - Himalayan Balsam, Policeman's Helmet
• Impatiens gordonii
• Impatiens grandis
• Impatiens hawkeri
• Impatiens holstii
• Impatiens javensis
• Impatiens jerdoniae
• Impatiens kilimanjari - Kilimanjaro Impatiens
• Impatiens linearifolia
• Impatiens malabarica
• Impatiens marianae
• Impatiens mirabilis
• Impatiens namchabarwensis - Blue Diamond Impatiens
• Impatiens niamniamensis - Parrot Plant,Congo Cockatoo
• Impatiens noli-tangere - Touch-me-not Balsam
• Impatiens oppositifolia
• Impatiens pallida - Pale Jewelweed
• Impatiens parviflora - Small Balsam
• Impatiens petersiana
• Impatiens platypetala
• Impatiens pseudoviola
• Impatiens repens - Ceylon Jewelweed
• Impatiens rosulata
• Impatiens scabrida
• Impatiens sodenii - Poor Man's Rhododendron
• Impatiens sulcata
• Impatiens tinctoria
• Impatiens walleriana - Busy Lizzie

Impatiens species are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species including Dot Moth.

The balsam used in shampoos (Tolu balsam, or Balsam of Peru), is derived from the unrelated plant Myroxylon.

Diseases

Main article: List of impatiens diseases

Botanical References

• Flora Europaea: Impatiens
• Flora of China: Impatiens species list
• Flora of Madagascar: Impatiens species list
• UK National Plant Collection of Impatiens

          

 

Tags: impatiens, flora europaea, flora china, flora madagascar, impatiens diseases

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1:42:50 AM EST

Impatiens Photo Gallery

Most of the photos are taken from the website Proven Winners simply because of the absolutely unbelievable amount of the varieties they carry.  Do visit their website, it's amazing.

Infinity Series

       

Scarlet             Orange Frost    Pink Frost       Infinity Blushing

Jelly Bean Series

     

Cherry Rose          Orange                Rose                     Red

Little Lizzy Series

          

Cherry Butterfly            Orange                          Orchid Butterfly

         

White                            Violet Star                    Pink

       

Salmon                           Rose                            Violet

       

Orange Nova                 Cherry                           Red

Double Up Series

   

Red Bi-Color                    Double Up Apple                Salmon

    

Violet Bi-Color                  Peach                              Peach  Frost          

     

Passion                             Rose                                   Pink

     

Bridal Pink                       Violet                                    White

This is just a sampling of the beautiful and complete collection you will find at the Proven Winners gardening website.

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11:51:21 PM EST

   Growing Impatiens in a Container    

For those with a limited growing area, or other who have a patio they would like to add some color and beauty too, impatiens are an excellent container flower.

Tips for Container Gardening              

When putting planting a container garden, real soil is a no-no.

Instead, choose a soil-less mix – a lightweight combination of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite – sold as patio or container mix.

The potting mix should be fluffy and just moist for planting.

Place a piece of broken pottery or small stone over drainage hole to prevent mix from leaking out. 

• Fill container three quarters
  with potting mix, keeping it fluffy (don't press down too hard). Remove plants from pots, gently teasing roots apart if necessary, and place inside container.

• Container garden plants are asked to produce masses of flowers in a tight space, so be sure to fertilize. The easy way is to mix slow-release fertilizer pellets into the top couple of inches of potting soil. (Follow package directions for amount.) The fertilizer beads are covered with a coating that gradually releases nutrients all season long.

• Fill gaps between container garden plants with potting mix, firming down gently. Avoid packing pots right up to the rim – leave about an inch free as a reservoir for easier watering.

• To finish, water. Throughout the season, check your container garden pots daily and water until water comes out through the drainage hole.

The best pots for your container garden           

Choose good sized container so your plantings can be more interesting, and for easier maintenance. Bigger containers don't dry out so quickly.

• Terra cotta: A time-honored classic material that's porous and allows oxygen to get to roots. However terra cotta is heavy and easily chipped or broken and generally not frost-proof, so store indoors in winter. The best terra cotta comes from Italy.

• Glazed ceramic: This material has the same advantages and disadvantages as terra cotta. Available in many attractive colors. Not frost-proof, needs indoor storage for winter

• Plastic and molded polyethylene (fake terra cotta or stone): Light, easy to move, polyethylene looks like real thing. It doesn't chip or break and is frost-proof. Not porous like terra cotta, so good drainage is essential. Raise pot on blocks so drain holes not obstructed. Go for quality as cheap plastic pots degrade quickly in UV rays

• Wooden barrels & window boxes: Attractive, readily available; can be built to sizes and shapes that suit the location. Large-sized containers heavy to move. Deteriorates quickly unless protected from moisture, so line interior with plastic sheeting

Flower Gardening Made Easy
                                                               

Contain Yourself

By Diana Lawrence
Extension Master Gardener
University of Vermont

The idea of container gardening never occurred to me until I purchased my first home. I ran out to the local garden center and did what everyone else did. I bought a clay pot, put some soil in it, and stuck in a "spike," some vinca vine, and a few impatiens. .

I threw some water on it once every few days and felt like a homeowner. Then at the end of the season, I dumped everything out and left the clay pot outside. Of course, it crumbled in the freeze-thaw cycle of winter. Then we moved to Vermont. That's where I got serious about container gardening .

What's the appeal of going potted? Let me count the ways. .

First off, container gardening allows you to garden in a small area with or without earth. You may have a nice big deck, a yawning porch, or a tiny apartment balcony. Whatever space you're faced with, no matter if it's shady or sunny, there's room for a pot or two (or ten). Trees, shrubs, flowers, bulbs, ornamental grasses, herbs, vegetables--if it grows, you can grow it in a pot .

Gardening in containers also offers instant gratification, and let's face it, what gardener hasn't picked up a flat of gorgeous little annuals because they were in full bloom, full size, and just waiting to perk up that boring bit of the bed? You buy the plants, you put them in the pot, and they look beautiful right away and keep getting better .

Pots also enable experimentation. You can try out new plants, annual or perennial, and see if you like how they look in your backyard. You can move pots around to add color or interest to areas that need it, or foliage to a part of the garden that looks bare. .

Think that gorgeous 'Karl Forester' feather reed grass might look great in the corner of your sunny garden? Put it in a pot and see. If it still makes you sigh at the end of the season, just take it out and