Impatiens

Growing Impatiens in a Container

Sat, 03 Feb 2007 04:51:21 GMT

Growing Impatiens in a Container

For those with a limited growing area, or other who have a patio they would like to add some color and beauty too, impatiens are an excellent container flower.

Tips for Container Gardening

When putting planting a container garden, real soil is a no-no.

Instead, choose a soil-less mix – a lightweight combination of peat moss, vermiculite and perlite – sold as patio or container mix.

The potting mix should be fluffy and just moist for planting.

Place a piece of broken pottery or small stone over drainage hole to prevent mix from leaking out.

Fill container three quarters
with potting mix, keeping it fluffy (don't press down too hard). Remove plants from pots, gently teasing roots apart if necessary, and place inside container.
Container garden plants are asked to produce masses of flowers in a tight space, so be sure to fertilize. The easy way is to mix slow-release fertilizer pellets into the top couple of inches of potting soil. (Follow package directions for amount.) The fertilizer beads are covered with a coating that gradually releases nutrients all season long.
Fill gaps between container garden plants with potting mix, firming down gently. Avoid packing pots right up to the rim – leave about an inch free as a reservoir for easier watering.
To finish, water. Throughout the season, check your container garden pots daily and water until water comes out through the drainage hole.

The best pots for your container garden

Choose good sized container so your plantings can be more interesting, and for easier maintenance. Bigger containers don't dry out so quickly.

Terra cotta: A time-honored classic material that's porous and allows oxygen to get to roots. However terra cotta is heavy and easily chipped or broken and generally not frost-proof, so store indoors in winter. The best terra cotta comes from Italy.
Glazed ceramic: This material has the same advantages and disadvantages as terra cotta. Available in many attractive colors. Not frost-proof, needs indoor storage for winter
Plastic and molded polyethylene (fake terra cotta or stone): Light, easy to move, polyethylene looks like real thing. It doesn't chip or break and is frost-proof. Not porous like terra cotta, so good drainage is essential. Raise pot on blocks so drain holes not obstructed. Go for quality as cheap plastic pots degrade quickly in UV rays
Wooden barrels & window boxes: Attractive, readily available; can be built to sizes and shapes that suit the location. Large-sized containers heavy to move. Deteriorates quickly unless protected from moisture, so line interior with plastic sheeting

Flower Gardening Made Easy

Contain Yourself

By Diana Lawrence
Extension Master Gardener
University of Vermont

The idea of container gardening never occurred to me until I purchased my first home. I ran out to the local garden center and did what everyone else did. I bought a clay pot, put some soil in it, and stuck in a "spike," some vinca vine, and a few impatiens. .

I threw some water on it once every few days and felt like a homeowner. Then at the end of the season, I dumped everything out and left the clay pot outside. Of course, it crumbled in the freeze-thaw cycle of winter. Then we moved to Vermont. That's where I got serious about container gardening .

What's the appeal of going potted? Let me count the ways. .

First off, container gardening allows you to garden in a small area with or without earth. You may have a nice big deck, a yawning porch, or a tiny apartment balcony. Whatever space you're faced with, no matter if it's shady or sunny, there's room for a pot or two (or ten). Trees, shrubs, flowers, bulbs, ornamental grasses, herbs, vegetables--if it grows, you can grow it in a pot .

Gardening in containers also offers instant gratification, and let's face it, what gardener hasn't picked up a flat of gorgeous little annuals because they were in full bloom, full size, and just waiting to perk up that boring bit of the bed? You buy the plants, you put them in the pot, and they look beautiful right away and keep getting better .

Pots also enable experimentation. You can try out new plants, annual or perennial, and see if you like how they look in your backyard. You can move pots around to add color or interest to areas that need it, or foliage to a part of the garden that looks bare. .

Think that gorgeous 'Karl Forester' feather reed grass might look great in the corner of your sunny garden? Put it in a pot and see. If it still makes you sigh at the end of the season, just take it out and plant it there .

The other element of container gardening that I find inviting is the creativity it inspires. I don't stop at annuals. I combine perennials and annuals, plants that are all silver, plants that are all foliage and offer no flowers, the same plant in different colors, or plants with wonderful fragrance. Some years I'll take a flower and put some of it in every pot I have. Other years I'll make every container a "specimen." I also use fall-blooming plants to keep the color going through the first frost. .

And although I always stick to pots, you can plant your combinations in any kind of container, as long as it drains well and won't fall apart when it's wet. At a local nursery I frequent, someone with a low boredom threshold has potted up old golf bags, suitcases, handbags, boots, and baby prams--even the seat of a chair .

When I put up a pot, I use potting soil, which drains easily (I have reused potting soil several years in a row, since it is a growing medium, and not a major source of nutrients). I mix the bottom half of the soil with polymer crystals, which help retain water, and slow-release fertilizer capsules. I don't bother putting either one of these elements near the surface of the soil, since it's the roots that need the food and water. A friend of mine showed me how to rip up a plastic plant six-pack and place the sections upside down at the bottom of the pot to prevent the mix from running out and clogging the drainage hole, and this works like a charm .

I sometimes buy my plants with a plan in mind, but most often I just head for the greenhouse and play around with combinations of plants when I get there. It can be frustrating (and limiting) to hunt for a specific plant and not be able to find it. Remember, when it comes to pots, the more plants the merrier. .

Unlike perennials in the garden, you don't start out with small plants and wait for growth over several seasons. In my container gardens, it's standing room only. Look for plants with striking foliage, cascading growth habits, and unusual textures. Flowers fade, but a great looking artemesia holds its own all summer .

I choose large containers because they need less frequent watering, and because I think a lot of small pots can look cluttered. I also like to use large perennials and ornamental grasses (I put these into the garden in the fall), and they don't fit in smaller pots. Whatever size you choose, remember that container gardens are hardly maintenance free. .

They dry out quickly in warm weather and should be watered until the water runs out the bottom of the pot. You should also fertilize your containers once a week all summer long (this includes hanging baskets). Now, aside from all these wonderful elements, here comes the best part about container gardening: no weeding!

Extension Master Gardener Diana Lawrence lives and garden is Grafton, Vermont .

Backyard Gardner

Tags: Impatiens in baskets, containers, pots, cpntainer gardening

When Can I Plant Impatiens

Sat, 03 Feb 2007 00:19:25 GMT

When Can I Plant Impatiens

The central rule of thumb is to plant after the last day of expected frost in your area. Remember, impatiens are frost sensitive. A few days too early can mean the difference between a beautiful flower garden....and a disaster.

Planting Zone Map

Learn what planting zone you live in:

Knowing your planting zone can be very useful when your are planning your garden and flower bed areas.

When you order plants online or through a catalog it is very useful for you to know what will have the best success in your zone.

Most plants are marked with a zone number. Use this map to know what plants will do best in your zone.

USDA PLANTING ZONE MAP

Using the Zone Map is really very simple. Find your geographic location on the map. Observe the corresponding color to that location. Look at the map key. That number designates the zone in which you live.

You should select products that can survive in your zone. Simply read the item description and you will find a either a zone number or a range of zones. The lower of the the two zone numbers tells you the lowest recommended zone in which that plant can survive. Sometimes, an item will thriveoutside that zone area. Remember this is only a guide.

For more information visit:

Indicator Plant Examples Listed by Zone

Plant Hardiness Zones, Details

From: Plant Power

AVERAGE DATES OF FIRST AND LAST FROST
NOTE: The dates below are for the Northern Hemisphere
(Adjust appropriately for Southern Hemisphere)

Zone 1
Average dates Last Frost = 1 Jun / 30 Jun
Average dates First Frost = 1 Jul / 31 Jul Note: Vulnerable to frost 365 days per year

Zone 2
Average dates Last Frost = 1 May / 31 May
Average dates First Frost = 1 Aug / 31 Aug

Zone 3
Average dates Last Frost = 1 May / 31 May
Average dates First Frost = 1 Sep / 30 Sep

Zone 4
Average dates Last Frost = 1 May / 30 May
Average dates First Frost = 1 Sep / 30 Sep

Zone 5
Average dates Last Frost = 30 Mar / 30 Apr
Average dates First Frost = 30 Sep / 30 Oct

Zone 6
Average dates Last Frost = 30 Mar / 30 Apr
Average dates First Frost = 30 Sep / 30 Oct

Zone7
Average dates Last Frost= 30 Mar / 30 Apr
Average dates First Frost = 30 Sep / 30 Oct

Zone 8
Average dates Last Frost = 28 Feb / 30 Mar
Average dates First Frost = 30 Oct / 30 Nov

Zone 9
Average dates Last Frost = 30 Jan / 28 Feb
Average dates First Frost = 30 Nov / 30 Dec

Zone 10
Average dates Last Frost = 30 Jan or before
Average dates First Frost = 30 Nov / 30 Dec

Zone 11
Free of Frost throughout the year.

Best of the Home

Tags: Planting Zone Map, Planting Date, Last Frost Date, First Frost Date

Impatiens - Wikipedia

Fri, 16 Feb 2007 04:44:51 GMT

Impatiens from Wikipedia

Impatiens is a genus of about 900-1000 species of flowering plants in the family Balsaminaceae. The genus has a wide distribution throughout the northern hemisphere and tropics, although they are not found in South America.

Some species are annual plants and produce flowers from early summer until the first frost, while perennial species, found in milder climates, can flower all year. They can exist both in, and out, of direct sunlight. Some Impatiens hybrids have commercial importance as garden plants with a yearly business volume of about US $230 million.

Major common names for one or more species include balsam, jewelweed and busy lizzie.

The plant derives its scientific name Impatiens ("impatient") and the common name "touch-me-not" from the plant's seed pods. When the seed pods mature, they "explode" when touched, sending seeds several meters away. This mechanism is also known as "explosive dehiscence". See also Rapid plant movement.

Selected species

Impatiens arguta

Impatiens auricoma

Impatiens balfourii - Kashmir Balsam

Impatiens balsamina - Rose Balsam

Impatiens bicornuta

Impatiens campanulata

Impatiens capensis - Spotted Jewelweed, Orange Balsam

Impatiens chinensis

Impatiens cristata

Impatiens edgeworthii

Impatiens flaccida

Impatiens glandulifera - Himalayan Balsam, Policeman's Helmet

Impatiens gordonii

Impatiens grandis

Impatiens hawkeri
Impatiens holstii
Impatiens javensis
Impatiens jerdoniae
Impatiens kilimanjari - Kilimanjaro Impatiens
Impatiens linearifolia
Impatiens malabarica
Impatiens marianae
Impatiens mirabilis
Impatiens namchabarwensis - Blue Diamond Impatiens
Impatiens niamniamensis - Parrot Plant,Congo Cockatoo
Impatiens noli-tangere - Touch-me-not Balsam
Impatiens oppositifolia
Impatiens pallida - Pale Jewelweed
Impatiens parviflora - Small Balsam
Impatiens petersiana
Impatiens platypetala
Impatiens pseudoviola
Impatiens repens - Ceylon Jewelweed
Impatiens rosulata
Impatiens scabrida
Impatiens sodenii - Poor Man's Rhododendron
Impatiens sulcata
Impatiens tinctoria
Impatiens walleriana - Busy Lizzie

Impatiens species are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species including Dot Moth.

The balsam used in shampoos (Tolu balsam, or Balsam of Peru), is derived from the unrelated plant Myroxylon.

Diseases

Main article: List of impatiens diseases

Botanical References

Tags: impatiens, flora europaea, flora china, flora madagascar, impatiens diseases

New Impatiens Introductions

Tue, 24 Apr 2007 16:09:03 GMT

New Impatiens Introductions

From Marie Iannotti,
Your Guide to Gardening.

Impatiens are a garden favorite because they deliver long lasting color in shade. Reds, pinks, lavenders and pure white Impatiens will brighten any dark corner throughout the growing season. Impatiens have indeed become a garden standard.

The breeders at Ball Horticultural Company have recently introduced two new series of Impatiens that are testing very positively. They are both released under the Simply Beautiful brand name: Simply Beautiful Fusion™ series and Simply Beautiful Fanfare™ series.

Simply Beautiful Fusion

The Fusion Impatiens series has the distinction of offering the first yellow Impatiens flowers. It took breeders years to isolate and stabilize Fusion Impatiens ‘Glow’ from its wild parent, but it was worth the effort.

From their efforts creating ‘Glow’ came a whole series of exotic warm colors. Fusion ‘Radiance’ is coral with a rust center. Fusion ‘Infrared’ is a darker coral with shades of yellow and orange. Then there’s Fusion ‘Sunset’ in apricot witha maroon center and Fusion ‘Heat’ which is a stunning rusty orange with a yellow center. The series looks almost tropical.

The Fusion series still has the non-stop blooming power of traditional Impatiens, but the flowers are an interesting cup shape with a deeper colored center. Ball likens them to orchid shaped flowers.

Mature plants will reach 12 - 16" in height and width.

Maintenance of the Fusion Impatiens Series

The Fusion series is as undemanding as common Impatiens, but since these annual flowers are going to bloom until frost, you’ll want to give them a rich, well drained soil to grow in.

You can amend the soil with organic matter or use a slow-release fertilizer when planting.
Mulch after planting and give them a light feeding every 6 - 8 weeks.
Fusion Impatiens enjoy a little sun in the morning, but prefer afternoon shade.
Heat and humidity don’t seem to faze them.
If they should begin to look leggy toward the end of summer, Fusion Impatiens can be rejuvenated by shearing them back by about 1/3. New growth and flowers will follow shortly.

To find a garden center that carries the Fusion Impatiens Series, check the Simply Beautiful website. Keep reading to learn about the trailing Fanfare Impatiens Series.

Perfect for Hanging Around in the Shade

Simply Beautiful Fanfare

The exciting news about the Simply Beautiful Fanfare Impatiens series is that they are spreaders and trailers. These Impatiens look incredible in hanging baskets and containers. Of course they are equally at home in beds and since they spread, you’ll need fewer to cover the same amount of space as traditional Impatiens. They have the added bonus of handling heat better than common Impatiens.

The Fanfare Impatiens series comes in 6 colors: Fuchsia, Blush, Lavender, Orange, Pink Sparkle and the latest, Bright Coral. Mature plants reach a height of 16 - 20" and can spread up to 2 feet.

Maintenance of the Fanfare Impatiens Series

As with the Fusion Impatiens series, Fanfare Impatiens are nofuss plants.

Just keep in mind that flowers that bloom profusely benefit from a rich soil and some periodic supplemental feeding

during the growing season.

You can amend the soil with organic matter or use a slow-release fertilizer when planting.
Mulch after planting and give them a light feeding every 6 - 8 weeks.
Fusions Impatiens enjoy a little sun in the morning, but prefer afternoon shade.
Heat and humidity don’t seem to faze them.
If they should begin to look leggy toward the end of summer, Fusion Impatiens can be rejuvenated by shearing them back by about 1/3. New growth and flowers will follow shortly.

To find a garden center that carries the Fanfare Impatiens Series, check the Simply Beautiful website

http://gardening.about.com/od/plantprofiles/a/SB_Impatiens.htm

Tags: fanfare impatiens, fusion impatiens

Basic Facts About Impatiens

Fri, 02 Feb 2007 13:57:42 GMT

Basic Facts About Impatiens

Richard K. Zimmerman

WVU Extension Service

Plant Sciences & Conservation Specialist

Family: Balsaminaceae--Balsam family
Scientific Name: Impatiens wallerana
Origin: Tanzania to Mozambique
Classification: Annual, houseplant
Use: Hanging basket, bedding, pot culture, window boxes
Height: 9 to 30 inches
Spread: 9 to 30 inches
Hardiness: Indoors 50oF to 55oF (10oC to 13oC); outdoors until frost
Flowers: Early summer to fall; solitary in racemes on terminal and axillary shoots; up to 2½ inches in diameter; solid colors of white, pink, salmon, purple, orange or red, and many bicolor; single, double and semi-double; numerous
Fruit: Capsule, ¾ inch long, glabrous
Stems (Bark): Herbaceous, fleshy, green
Foliage: Alternative, upper leaves sometimes opposite; lanceolate-ovate; green or reddish green on both surfaces
Texture: Fine to medium
Growth Rate: Rapid
Form: Spreading, rounded, flat topped
Insects & Diseases: Scale, spider mites, aphids; damping off
Propagation: Seed sown indoors 6 to 8 weeks before last occurrence of frost (late February to mid-March); give bright light but not direct sun; artificial lights, such as Grow Lamps, should be used--place 6 to 12 inches above the flats for 12 to 14 hours a day; soil temperature should be 70oF (21oC) and air temperature 75oF (24oC) for good germination; seed should germinate in one to two weeks; grow plants at 58oF (14.4oC) to 60oF (15.5oC); cuttings, anytime, place in sand and mist or enclose in a polyethylene plastic bag.
Varieties: Many varieties and series introduced each year with varying colors and sizes.

Dwarf forms: 8 to 10 inches tall, compact, 12-inch spacing; many colors; series includes Elfin, Elfin Improved; Elfin Improved bloom earlier and more profusely.

Semi-dwarf forms: 10 to 12 inches tall, flowers 1 to 2 inches across; spacing 14 inches, solid and bicolored blooms; series includes Duet, Fantasia, Futura, Minette, Novette, Ripple (star pattern in blooms), Rosette (blooms like a miniature rose), and Twinkle.

Tall forms: 12 to 14 inches tall, flowers 1½ to 2 inches across; solid and bicolors; spacing 18 inches; series includes Grande, Blitz, Stars and Stripes, Tangelow and Treasure; New Guinea-Indonesian hybrids have leaves with red or yellow markings and variegations, to 24 inches tall; good for pot culture.

Related Species: Impatiens balsamina--Garden Balsam or Rose Balsam; annual to 2½ feet; flowers axillary, close to stem, 2 inches across, many colors, some spotted.
Remarks: May be called Balsam, Sultana, Touch-Me-Not, Snap Weed, Jewel Weed, Busy Lizzy, Patient Lucy, Patience Plant or Zanzibar Balsam; may be listed as Impatiens sultana or Impatiens holstii; stems and leaves reported to be toxic.

Indoor Culture

Soil Requirement: All-purpose soil composed of two parts garden loam, one part leaf mold or peatmoss and one part coarse sand; soil must be well drained.
Maintenance: Keep moist but not wet, barely moist in winter, use water that is room temperature, it is best to let water stand overnight before using; fertilize every two weeks with a houseplant fertilizer at one-half recommended rate, reduce fertilization in winter; ideal temperatures are 50oF to 55oF (10oC to 13oC) at night and 65oF to 70oF (18oC to 21oC) during the day; repot anytime as necessary.
Situation: Bright light, 4000 to 8000 foot-candles (southern or western window), will tolerate 500 to 2000 foot-candles (northern or eastern window).

Outdoor Culture

Soil Requirements: Slightly acid to neutral, good garden loam rich in organic matter such as leaf mold or compost with liberal amounts of coarse sand for good drainage.
Maintenance: Keep moist but not wet; fertilize every two weeks with a general fertilizer; plant out-of-doors after danger of frost has passed.
Situation: Sun or partial shade

wvu.edu

Tags: Impatiens, Indoor growing,outdoor growing, Impatiens wallerana, Varieties, dwarf, semi-dwarf, tall forms,

Diseases of Impatiens

Fri, 02 Feb 2007 16:48:32 GMT

Diseases of Impatiens

Disease	Symptoms	Pathogen/Cause	Management
Alternaria Leaf Spot	Target-like spots, often with purple or dark-colored borders form on the leaves.	Alternaria spp.	Reduce humidity and maintain good air circulation. Do not space plants too closely. Remove fading flowers and yellowing leaves. Apply iprodione, mancozeb, or triflumizole to protect plants. If plants are not flowering, chlorothalonil can be applied.
Botrytis Blight	Flowers are spotted and stems rot.	Botrytis cinerea	Reduce humidity and maintain good air circulation. Do not space plants too closely. Remove fading flowers and yellowing leaves. Apply iprodione to protect plants. If plants are not flowering, chlorothalonil can be applied.
Bacterial Fasciation	Plants are stunted and have many short shoots at the crown.	Corynebacterium fascians	Discard infected plants. Do not propagate from infected plants. Propagate and plant in pasteurized potting media.
Damping-Off	Stems at the soil line die and plants collapse.	**Pythium or Rhizoctonia**	Plant in pasteurized potting media. Keep hose ends off the ground. Apply etridiazole + thiophanate methyl to protect plants.
Necrotic Spot	Ring spots on leaves. Growing tips may die. Severe stunting.	Impatiens necrotic spot virus	Discard infected plants. Control thrips that carry the virus. Do not propagate from infected plants.
Powdery Mildew (New guinea impatiens)	White, mealy fungal growth develops on the top of leaves. Sometimes, heavy gray growth develops.	*Oidium*	Apply triflumizole to protect plants. If plants are not flowering, chlorothalonil can be applied.
Pythium Root Rot	Lower leaves wilt, leaves fall and the plant dies.	Pythium spp.	Pot in pasteurized, pathogen-free media. Keep hose ends off the ground. Apply mefenoxam or fosetyl-Al to protect healthy plants.
Rhizoctonia Stem Rot	Stems wilt and collapse.	*Rhizoctonia*	Pot in pasteurized, pathogen-free media. Keep hose ends off the ground. Apply PCNB.
Thielaviopsis Root Rot	Roots become dark brown and rot as microscopic spores form in the cells. Lower stems have sunken lesions when infected.	Thielaviopsis basicola	Pot in pasteurized, pathogen-free media. Keep hose ends off the ground. Apply etridiazole + thiophanate methyl or triflumizole to protect plants.
Verticillium Wilt	Lower leaves yellow and fall. Infected plants may recover.	Verticillium dahliae	Pot in pasteurized, pathogen-free media. Do not take cuttings infected plants.

psu.edu

Tags: Alternaria Leaf Spot, Botrytis Blight, Bacterial Fasciation, Damping-Off, Necrotic Spot, Powdery Mildew, Pythium Root Rot, Rhizoctonia Stem Rot, Thielaviopsis Root Rot, Verticillium Wilt

Welcome to Impatiens

Fri, 02 Feb 2007 13:26:47 GMT

Welcome to Impatiens

I have some thirty-six other internet sites on prose, inspirational writings and medical conditions. But, I needed a change and what a better idea could there be then starting some blogs on my favorite flowers and ideas on gardening.

This past week I have developed five other sites on flowers. I have chosen some of my very favorite ones...ones that I have grown for many years as an active gardener.

I grow impatiens by the thousands. They are a spectacular border flower and come in a myriad of different colors and combinations....and they are practically care free. Down here in Georgia, they will also often self seed. Finally, butterflies and hummingbirds adore them.

Enjoy!

Pat O'Connor

Tags: Impatiens, annual flower, border flower

Everyone Should Grow Impatiens

Mon, 11 Jun 2007 11:45:17 GMT

Everyone Should Grow Impatiens

Posted on Jun 2, 2007 9:00:00 AM

Sorry if I brag a little but my impatiens are beautiful. It's one flower that's so easy to grow and very versatile too. The only thing needed is shade.

Everyone has some shade - don't they? It may be a porch, balcony or a big area under a tree or the north side of the home. If you do, you are going to love impatiens.

I grow my impatiens in containers so the nematodes won't get them. I guess this is the one real problem with this flower. The root knot nematodes find them when planted in the ground. These microscopic round worms cause the roots to swell and then the plants decline.

Planting impatiens in containers solves the nematode problem plus I can set the containers where ever I need them. This is one creative idea I learned from the theme parks. Container gardens are mobile. As needed they can be moved about or when they start to look bad they can be replaced.

Starting an impatiens planting is easy and inexpensive. If you have a container and the soil you can create an attractive planting for about $4.00. I like to start mine in 12 to 20 inch shallow containers. The root systems don't need a lot of room. There is one impatiens set in the middle and 3 around the sides.

Go ahead and use just one color if you wish or mix several together. These can be very colorful containers. Most likely you are not going to be able to stop at one container and that is OK too. I like to make clusters of 3 or more containers to really get attention.

Now here are few tips. Keep the soil moist. Check it daily. There is nothing sadder than a wilted pot of impatiens. Then add a slow release fertilizer to the container. This saves you lots of time by avoiding those weekly feedings. One application of a slow release fertilizer can feed the plants for up to nine months depending on the product selected.

I am adding lots of impatiens to my shady sites -- how about you?

http://blogs.orlandosentinel.com/features_gardening_blog/2007/06/everyone_should.html

Tags: impatiens, container garden, care

Impatiens good plant for those with shady yards

Sun, 20 May 2007 05:17:44 GMT

Impatiens good plant for those with shady yards

Shady areas often lack color. The reason is most blooming plants need a good amount of sunlight to produce carbohydrates needed to make blooms. There are plants, however, that bloom well in the shade. One of the best examples are impatiens.

Impatiens come in a wide variety of colors. They bloom well with very little light, provided you give them a little moisture and continue to feed them to keep them vigorous.

Impatiens come in a single blooming form and a double blooming, or rosebud, form. The rosebud type is attractive viewed up close, but if you want to view from a distance, use the single blooming types.

Also, when viewing something from a distance, it's better to use a large swath of color rather than mixing up a whole bunch of colors that get lost when you see them from a distance.

If it's a dark area, make sure and use the lightest colors you can. Very light colors show up really well in a dark area, as opposed to something like a dark purple, which gets lost among the green.

Impatiens work in hanging baskets also. Most hanging baskets are hanging under something that's shading them, like a tree, so they're an excellent choice for those.

To keep impatiens looking good, fertilize them weekly with a soluble plant food and water enough to keep the soil moist. They won't tolerate a sunny spot without a lot of extra water, so you want to keep them perky and looking good with regular water and feeding.

http://www.news8austin.com/content/headlines/?ArID=184066&SecID=2

Tags: impatiens, shady yard

Double Impatiens

Sun, 29 Apr 2007 12:51:22 GMT

Double Impatiens

Cameo, Doublet, & Tioga® (Impatiens walleriana)

Through these three different series of impatiens, there are many options for the grower. The Tiogas and Cameos are series of double impatiens that offer both compact and standard plant habits. They are all self branching and hold the flowers well above the foliage. Both series are well suited for production in 4”-6” pots and 1 gallon containers. The Doublets are a uniquely double flowering series with a vigorous habit. They are best grown in 6” and 1 gallon containers. Typical crop timing for all three series is 9-17 weeks including time in propagation.

Double Impatiens is available from the Paul Ecke Ranch as an unrooted or rooted cutting.

Propagation

Double Impatiens can be propagated in various tray sizes including 72,84, and 105’s.

Media

Choose a well-drained aerated propagation media
Avoid media containing peat moss which will hold too much water
Choose a blended media with other components or inorganic media such as Oasis® or Rockwool®

Bottom Heat

Bottom heat will promote healthy root development.
Maintain bottom heat at 70-75°F/21-24°C.
Mist will cool the media temperature. Monitor media temperature closely and frequently.

Rooting Hormones

Double Impatiens will benefit from the use of a rooting hormone. Time to root and uniformity in rooting will be improved with use of a hormone.
Either liquid or powder formulations work equally well. Choose a product with up to 2500 ppm IBA or up to 500 ppm NAA.

Misting

Average days with mist vary from 6-9 days depending on environmental conditions in the greenhouse.
Mist cuttings so they remain turgid but avoid over misting that results in saturated media.
Over misting will result in slow rooting and possible problems with root rot and botrytis.

Pinching

Pinch cuttings in week two of propagation to prevent stretch and promote branching.

Growth Regulating

To prevent stretch apply B-Nine®at 2500 ppm
Sprays are most effective when applied after the pinch as new shoots are forming.

Propagation Cycle: 4 weeks

Growing On........

Media
Choose a media with the following traits:

Good aeration
Porosity between 5-15%
Sterile

Irrigation/Fertilization

Avoid excess irrigation and fertilization while plants are establishing which can lead to slow root development. Established plants should not be allowed to dry excessively which will result in leaf yellowing and leaf drop.
Fertilizer Regime
- Begin fertilizing 2 weeks after transplant.
- Choose a complete balanced fertilizer complete with minor elements.
- A periodic feeding of 200 ppm constant liquid feed.
- Avoid fertilizers high in ammoniacal nitrogen.
- Reduce fertilization to 100 ppm when flower buds are visible to enhance flowering. Resume higher concentrations after flowering is complete.
- A slow release product may also be used to supplement a constant liquid feed program and may provide improved performance for the consumer.
Maintain pH between 5.5-6.3
Optimum EC is 1.5 to 2.0 mmhos. Provide periodic clear water application if excess salts accumulate.

Temperature/Humidity

Temperature regime:

Establishing temperature: 65°F/18°C average daily temperature

Temperatures for growing on: 55-75°F/13-24°C day and 50-65°F/10-18°C night temperatures.

Relative Humidity:
Maintain relative humidity below 70% and provide good air circulation to avoid problems with botrytis.

Light
Provide:

5000 foot candles/53,800 lux minimum
6000 foot candles/64,600 lux maximum

* Shade may be required to avoid high temperatures but can encourage stretch and delay flowering.
*Plants grown outdoors in full sun stay compact and may yellow in response to high light.

Spacing
Establish plants pot tight than space to:

4” pots – 5-6” centers (approximately 2 per sq. ft.)
6” pots/1 gallon – 14” centers
8” pots – 18” centers

Pinching
1st Pinch- week 2 of propagation
2nd Pinch- Tiogas and Cameos are free branching and should not require and additional pinch. Overgrown plants may be trimmed. Mature plants typically bloom within 4-6 weeks after trimming depending on the severity of the cut.

Plant Growth Regulators
Cultural management offers the most effective methods of preventing stretch. Adequate spacing, controlled temperatures and DIF, soil moisture management and good light all promote compact, quality growth.

If needed Bonzi® as a spray at 2-5 ppm or as a drench at 0.5 ppm is effective at controlling stretch.

Insect and Disease Concerns
Insects

Fungus Gnats
Spider Mites
Thrips

Diseases

Bacterial Leaf Spot
Botrytis
Myrothecium
Root and stem rots
Viruses

For recommended chemical controls for disease and insects please consult The Flower Fields Federal Disease Control Chart (463K) and The Flower Fields Federal Insect & Mite Control Chart (541K) at www.ecke.com. Always consult the chemical’s label for rates, mixing instructions and restriction

http://www.ecke.com/datasheets/ff_ffx_tio.html

Tags: double impatiens, Cameo, Doublet, Tioga, Impatiens walleriana