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Using a Tripod
Class is back in session, welcome back to those that are repeat readers, and I would like to extend a very warm welcome to my newer readers. For those of you that have followed this journal for any length of time know that pretty much everything that I shoot is done from a tripod. This is not because I "look more professional" with my camera mounted atop a tripod. Believe me, it has nothing to do with looks at all...at least not in the field. It is all about the final printed image, and "the looks" of that product.
Have you ever taken a picture, especially in low light, that turned out fuzzy or looked like you were experiencing an earthquake? Sure you have, we all have. As we learned in my low light photography tutorial, a slow shutter speed will make it nearly impossible to hand hold a camera and keep the picture sharp. There were several "fixes" for this problem discussed, but there is one solution that is the best of all. That is the use of a tripod. A tripod is not only used for low light photography, it is just as useful for daylight photography. In fact you will find that a tripod will improve your pictures no matter what time of day, or what subject you are photographing.
As you can see here, a tripod is made of two main components...a head and the legs. The legs are pretty simple to explain. They are made of sections, either three or four so that while able to extend to eye level, they can collapse to a more convenient size for mobility. There are two main things to look for with tripod legs, the first is how the legs lock in position. The preferred method is a flip lock that uses a lever of sorts to secure the leg at the desired length. This is beneficial for those that work in dirty, wet, or otherwise nasty conditions as they require no maintenance for reliable operation. The other type is a twist lock that requires you to twist a collar which clamps the legs. Grit will wear the clamp out over time, and it is also difficult to adjust in a hurry.
Another consideration when looking for legs is the number of sections they have. While tripods can be found with four sections, that is not the best way to go unless you need to be able to collapse to a very small size for travel considerations. Remember, every break in a leg is a potential weak spot to the stability. Three sections only have two breaks as opposed to three which yields a much more stable platform for the camera.
Part of the legs are the center column which the head connects to. This center column should be extendable to bring the camera up higher than the legs themselves can accommodate. We'll get into why that is important later.
Above, you will see the tripod head. On most tripods, this is a separate piece from the legs so you can choose the type of head you prefer. My preference is for the Pan and Tilt head pictured above. The other, actually more popular type is the ball head. The ball head is a simpler design that consists of a ball clamped in a receiver. On top of the ball is the camera mount. All camera adjustments can be made by releasing pressure on the ball and moving the camera into the position you desire and locking everything down. This is arguably the quickest way to get the camera in position, but I would rather slow things down and have a bit more control over positioning.
While not as simple as the ball head, the Pan and Tilt head does everything that the ball head does. As you see from the illustration above, there are two main levers. The tilt control rotates the camera up and down. The horizontal adjustment flips the camera from landscape to portrait orientation as well as fine tuning the horizon for level pictures. Each of these adjustments can be made individually so you are only changing one variable at a time. Near the base of the head you will find a panning knob that allows the camera to pan left and right while not changing the other adjustments. Most good quality tripods have a bubble level or two fitted to help with getting everything level. As you can see, I still use my hotshoe level which I have found to be more accurate than those on the tripod.
Also shown in the photograph above is the padded legs that are built into my Slik Pro 780 DX, but are easily added to others. These padded legs perform two distinct functions. First, they help reduce glare from the sun reflecting off of the legs. This will help avoid lens flare, and reduced contrast images. Maybe even as important is they make the tripod much easier to carry over your shoulders when hiking to that next photo spot. If your tripod doesn't include these padded legs, they can be made out of pipe insulation and some duct tape. While not as pretty, they are just as functional. Your shoulders will thank you...mine sure have.
As you can see above, changing from a landscape orientation to a portrait orientation is a very easy thing to do. With a simple twist of the horizontal adjuster, you can flip the camera and clamp it back down in a second or two. In this photo, you can also see the collar at the top of the legs that allows the center column to be removed and flipped upside down. By doing this, you can get the camera to ground level to shoot from some very creative levels, or possibly to get close to that macro subject.
While I have the short tube mounted currently, there is also an extension that can be used to extend that center column. While not so important for low work, it is invaluable for getting the camera up high. Ideally when the legs are fully extended and the camera mounted to the head, the camera should be at eye level, so why would you want to extend the center column so high. Well, when you are working on a mountain side, in a field of rocks, or standing in the water, that six foot tripod becomes awful short awful quick. You need that center column to bring the camera back up to eye level at times. However, you begin to lose stability with the center column extended, so try to use only the legs to get to the desired height.
Backyard View Photo Copyright © 2007 G. Kiser
So, what does a tripod do for you in exchange for all that we just learned. Well, it does two main things. First and most important, it gives your camera the ultimate in platform stability. A good quality tripod that is made to support your heaviest combination of equipment will keep the camera perfectly still no matter how long an exposure you are taking. This leads to noticeably sharper pictures in any light. Second, by having the ability to fine tune your adjustments, you can concentrate on getting the exact composition you want without having to worry about cropping your picture later at the expense of resolution. This also comes in handy when you are bracketing your exposures by allowing you to keep the exact same composition with each exposure.
For me, a tripod is essential to my photography. I wouldn't think of going on a photo shoot without one. However there are times when a tripod isn't practical so you have to make due with a monopod, a bean bag, or a fence post. There are also a number of Image Stabilization devices out there that allow you to shoot a few stops slower than without, but for absolute stability, a tripod is the only answer.
Note: As of 12-12-2007 I can no longer recommend a Slik PRO 780DX tripod. After only four outings with this tripod, one of the flip locks has broken. Upon further examination, these flip lock internals are very thin plastic. Fortunately, THK Photo Products offers a 3-year warranty on this item, but honestly, I just have no faith in this piece of equipment any more. It is very difficult to carry a backup tripod due to their bulk, so you really need a dependable unit that you can count on. I think Manfrotto will have my tripod budget from now on.
Written by Greg A. Kiser
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12/1/07 7:10 AM
Betty
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