The Front Range Experience Blog

11:59:45 AM EST
A carpet of fresh snow, crisp air, icicle-decorated trees -- all very heartwarming concepts when viewed from in front of a roaring fireplace. Yet, whatever your view of winter may be, one reality that can't be escaped is that we all have to maintain a fairly normal driving schedule for the duration of the season.

Checklist
If that first winter snowstorm -- when the temperature dips below freezing and threatens to stay there for months -- sends you deep into your down comforter, think how your automobile must feel. Just as homeowners must make changes around late October to prepare themselves for winter, consider the following checklist as your strategy to prepare the household's transportation for the rigors of the season.

Antifreeze Check
First, check your antifreeze. Most antifreezes are an ethylene glycol based fluid with low freezing and high boiling points when mixed with water. As one example, GM vehicles use a particular antifreeze with a 100,000-mile or 10-year rating. We specifically mention this because (it's red in color) it shouldn't be mixed with other antifreezes (usually green or beige).


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Other auto articles from autoMedia.com:


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Windshield Wipers & Washer
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The rule of thumb for changing the fluid is simple: if you didn't change it last winter, do it now. The recommended lifetime is two years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first. Even if the fluid looks relatively fresh, antifreezes include chemicals that lubricate water pumps and inhibit engine corrosion. These chemicals lose their punch at the end of the recommended lifetime.

Oil Check
Next is the motor oil. Check your owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommended winter rating. A 10W30-weight oil works for everything short of arctic or alpine winter conditions. If you use thicker oil for severe summer driving conditions and are looking at a comparatively cold winter, this is the time to change the oil and switch to a thinner weight.

Wiper/Washer Check
As for wipers and washer fluid, if your wiper blades are marginal, they probably won't hold up well under the assault of salted-road slush. Most washer solvents are good to 10 degrees below zero, which for most of civilization is adequate. If part of your winter tradition is a trip to the mountains, you may opt for a washer solvent that can handle even lower temperatures. Check to see whether you've picked up a few windshield dings, because this is a good time to have them repaired. The combination of cold air temperature and a warm auto interior can quickly escalate a ding into a serious crack. While we're on the subject of a warm interior, don't forget to check your heater. That way you can find out if it needs maintenance before you really need it.


New Car Reviews



Read the latest reviews, comparisons and test drives of the newest cars and trucks: New Car Reviews Here



Battery Check
Now for the battery and charging system. If your battery is within a year of its life expectancy, have it tested. It's far easier to deal with an aging battery on a pleasant fall weekend than a totally dead one in the dreary dark of winter. A weak battery and/or alternator may not be able to deliver the amperage required for a winter-cold start.

Tune Time
If you're due for a tune-up, this is a good time to head to your mechanic. Your vehicle can use all the help it can get during the coming months. A new set of plugs, distributor cap and rotor (if applicable) and ignition wires will give you better, quicker starts.

Belts/Hoses Check
Check all the belts and hoses: Cracked, frayed, or worn rubber may not make it through the winter. Freezing temperatures and winter driving conditions put an added strain on the engine. Plus, a breakdown because of a $10 hose or belt is doubly annoying on a winter night.


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Missed the latest and greatest? No problem, find stories and news here:


Autos Article Archive




Tire Check
Speaking of worn rubber, take a close look at your tread. Driving on packed snow and ice-riddled roads requires as much traction as your tires can deliver. Those who live in the mountains or extreme-winter states routinely change to snow tires for the winter. Most of us don't have to go to that extreme, but if your tires' footprints look thin, a new set is in order. Be very particular when inspecting the tread on the rear tires, at least on rear-wheel drive/front engine vehicles. This is where you really need the grip. Keep in mind that unless you're loaded down with cargo in the trunk or truck bed, there's not much weight back there to help in the traction department.

Exhaust Check
Exhaust dangers: Check your exhaust system and your floorboards while you're down under the vehicle. If you've got a carbon monoxide leak in your exhaust pipe, plus an avenue for the fumes to get into the passenger area, you could be in real danger. With the heater on and windows shut tight, a fume leak can be fatal.

Once you've run through this checklist, you should be pretty much ready for winter driving -- and can make it over the river and through the woods with a lot more peace of mind.










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11:57:50 AM EST
Cable Comparo
Obviously, cables are a prerequisite for jump-starting a vehicle. Not all jumper cables are built the same, and you generally get what you pay for. The thicker the cable, the more electrical current can flow -- and the higher the price of the jumpers.

Quality cables are available in thicknesses ranging from 10- to 2-gauge. Ten-gauge is usually sufficient for starting batteries in four-cylinder vehicles in warm weather. As the size of the engine increases and temperature decreases, fatter jumpers will do the job better. Large motorhomes or farm implements that need jumping in northern Minnesota in January are best served with 4- or possibly even 2-gauge cables. Thicker cables will also stay more flexible at colder temperatures than cheap, thin jumpers.

Word of warning: If the cables get warm during use, it's a sign of too much resistance. Either the cables are too thin for the job or they're possibly frayed or have rusty clamps.



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10:00:37 AM EST

Simple Plumbing Repairs That Work !!!! 

Even if they are temporary.

Okay.  We all know that it's cold and sometimes brutally cold, and we know that pipes freeze. 

Well, Mom and the kids are in your case about doing "something" to fix that leak "Until the Repair Guy Gets There" (UTRGGT) so:

Just like McGiver you look around the house and see what there is.

Tape?  No way -- not by itself!!

A section of hose and a couple of hose clamps?

Well, maybe and most of all it shows that you're thinking like McGiver. 

It is a good idea to have a selection of compression couplings and copper pipe on hand but before we get to that since that is another blog we'll talk about what you can have on hand for a temporary fix UTRGGT.

You need a pipe repair clamp kit which is available at hardware and home improvement stores.  Get one of each size (1/2", 3/4", and 1") if they have all three and if not get one of each of what they do have.  Put them where you will remember where they are.

Look at the leak.  What size pipe is it?  If it is 1/2 inch then the pipe clamp repair kits don't work as well but there is way to control the leak so the water can be used until fixed.

Is it 3/4 inch?  Well, in that case the clamps kits work pretty well for an emergency fix but don't stop there.

Some sort of glue?

EXACTLY!!!!!  But remember this requires some preparedness.  In other words, you gotta think ahead.  You need a certain type of glue and a pipe clamp repair kit (or two -- they are cheap and don't go bad on the shelf).

So, let's digress and talk about one type of glue now available in TWO brands.  This type of glue is so good that it can glue metal to concrete, wood to anything, glass to wood, and so on.  The secret to this type of glue is spraying water onto the contact surfaces to activate the glue.

Use sparingly -- it expands.

I experimented with gluing my back steps in place with them and it works!!.  The back steps go out the back door and then down ten vertical feet to the back yard.  The weather is dry in Colorado, and nearly all construction woods are some variety of evergreen hence the water content is higher than hardwoods.  The types of wood dry out drastically as they age so they, just like you and me, comes apart.  The screws work themselves loose.

So . . .

I sprayed water on all the adhesive surfaces (yes -- water), and into the screw holes.  I put a portion of the glue into each screw hole, along the surface of each step bracket, and even into the seams at the end of reach step, wetting as I went.  A few hours later the steps were stabilized, none are loose, and some touchup paint made the deal complete.  Sweet.

The kind of glue that I am talking about started out as "Gorilla Glue".  A little pricey but when you see it action it is not!

Elmer's has a decent spin-off of the original Gorilla Glue (I guess their patent ran out), and it is cheaper but most of all it is easier to work with because it is less viscous (less thick for anyone from Loma Linda).

The secret to these glue types is that they expand and adhere when dampened.  Spray or moisten both surfaces, apply a thin coat of he glue, clamp or tape in place and kick back to watch March Madness.  The glue expands so use it very sparingly.

I once glued a metal hand rail back into a masonry wall using Gorilla Glue and three years later it is still tight and strong.

About pipes -- When a pipe bursts from freezing the pipe using bulges out before bursting.  This creates a hump on the surface of the pipe which will prevent a pipe clamp repair system from working so the pipe has to be prepared.

What you don't want is a bulge with a split in the center of it because this technique of fixing the pipe temporarily will not work as well.

Step one is to gently tap and squeeze the flared edges of the bulge back into its original contour as best you can. 

Now, moisten the pipe, and apply a thin bead of G-glue or E-Glue onto the split.  Once it is in place, moisten again (a spray bottle or even a damp paper towel).  Then wrap the pipe with black electricians tape to hold the glue steady (remember that it is a gooey liquid and will run AND it expands as it cures and you want it to work itself into the split.

Well, I tried that on a section of pipe that burst during the recent cold snap, and I’ll let you know in few hours how it worked.

ALSO -- Remember you need a pipe repair clamp kit to make this work but letting the glue set up before putting on the repair "bandage" is the key to making the patch kit work.

Well, it is 8 hours later and the results are in -- the combination of Gorilla Glue (I used it because it is thicker and the pipe runs vertically so it stayed in place better), wrapped in electrician's tape, then clamped with a pipe repair kit, is holding and I am washing dishes during Sunday’s blizzard.  Monday I’ll put in a new section using compression couplings (connectors) but until then it is Playoff Sunday.

Until next time . . .

Later this month -- mulching, free (yes Free) mulch, and plant health.

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8:54:05 AM EST

Winter Waterland  (Wonderland?)  OR . . .

"How to make Happy Plants in the Winter"
 copyright Front Range Management 2007

Colorado is an arid state.  Those folks who measure things like rainfall will tell you that we live in a near-desert climate.

http://www.wrcc.dri.edu/summary/climsmco.html

 To add to the complexity of keeping plants healthy this area used to be under a prehistoric sea so the soil tends to be sandy and has deposited in it salts and minerals which might not be all that plant friendly.

But the REAL issue that has to be taken into account is the lack of usable water in the winter.  By "usable water" we mean readily available water that soaks in as in the form of rain that soaks in and keeps the root systems sound and healthy.

Sure we get snow but at this altitude a lot of  the snow goes from a solid to a gas in what we call "desiccation" without going through a melted stage.  A lot of moisture is lost back into the air without ever soaking in.  In the parts of the county where the soil is really sandy the moisture that does soak in is dissipated into the sandy soil.

Solution ?  WINTER WATERING!!!!!  There is no substitute.

People think that plants just hibernate in Winter but that is not accurate.  A lot of activity goes on in plants while getting ready for the Spring blossoming season which takes a lot of energy.

Without those healthy blossoms then the leaf production is reduced and the life and health of the plants are held back.  In short, the plants will struggle through the Winter, then not prosper in the Spring.

Winter watering is really easy. 

First, keep a hose handy BUT drain it after each watering.  It only takes a few minutes to drain it and put in a warm space to prevent freezing.

Second, measure the flow rate of your water supply. 

Easy to do. 

Most water systems put out 8 to 12 gallons per minute.  A one gallon container should take about 8 seconds to fill at the rate of 8 gallons per minute so if the gallon fills in 8 seconds (or less) you are ready to go.  If it fills faster than that even better -- the flow rate is higher.

NOTE -- Be sure to measure the flow rate at the outdoor spigot NOT an indoor faucet.  Many indoor faucets have "low flow"filters or have smaller pipes so the rate of flow is lower.

Now the easy part -- dig or scrape a depression at the base of each tree, shrub, landscaped area with ground cover, or bush, or make a small dyke around the base to hold the water, and simply count out the seconds  by slow seconds at each plant (one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three . . .)   At that rate each plant is getting about two gallons or more in fifteen or sixteen seconds ! 

At that rate FIFTY plants can be given two gallons of water in about FIFTEEN MINUTES. 

Two gallons per minute and the plants will think they are wintering in Seattle.

Occasionally (based on instructions on the bag) use some general use fertilizer and supplement at least once with an iron fortified fertilizer.  Always water thoroughly when the fertilizer is put down.  It will time release.

If you only water four times each week then the plants will get 8 or more gallons and the total time spent for as many as 50 plants (a number I just picked) is only an hour.

By following this regimen my Siberian elms, lilacs, evergreen shrubs, groundcover, and willows doubled in height and size in one  year.

Finally DISCONNECT THE HOSE.  That is imperative.  A burst pipe can occur if you don’t.  Roll the hose, draining as you go, keep it warm, water a few times each week, and your plants will love you.

Tags: climate, watering plants, fertilizer 

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4:54:37 PM EST

What to do  Until the Repair Guy Comes and Other Home Maintenance Tips 

                          copyright 2007 Front Range Management

The weather is cold, more cold predicted, and that home you bought seems fine . . .

Until you turn that tap for a glass of water or a hand wash and . . . nothing happens.   You rush downstairs and try another tap and . . . nothing.   You hear a toilet flush and when there should be the sound of water filling the tank again . . . nothing.

What next?   This blog is about "what to do until the repair guy gets there".

If you are reading this to find out the answer the good news is that you are in the right place for answers but the bad news is that damage has probably occurred in the pipes if the above scenario was yours.   While repair guys can get there eventually a lot can occur that can change your day, drain your budget, and make for a bad day if you don't do some things RIGHT NOW.

First, you shroud have found some key cutoff points in all of your utility systems before the weather got cold but, since you didn't, we won't criticize.   FIND IT NOW.

The first cutoff valve you need to locate is your water valve from your water source (city or well water).  It is the point at which the water enters the house system and feeds the entire house.   If you have a well the valve will be in the line that comes out of the pressure tank and goes into the house water system.  Also, if you are on a well then there may be a side faucet that serves as a "bleeder valve" which means that it can opened to drain the pressure tank.  It usually has a spigot (faucet) with a threaded spout like your garden hose spigot AND A WATER HOSE CAN BE ATTACHED TO IT TO GET WATER FROM THE WELL EVEN IF THE OTHER MAIN VALVE IS SHUT OFF.  Make sure that you have a hose that is not frozen.  If it is frozen either bring it in the house and let it thaw or partially fill the washing machine with warm water, coil the hose, and place it in the warm water until it is thawed BUT DO NOT TURN THE WASHER ON !!!!!!!

Now that you are oriented as to the location of the valves then how do you use them ?

If a leak occurs when this valve is open then literally hundreds of gallons can pour out of the leak before help arrives.   Most wells provide 8 to 10 gall per minute which means that if the leak is unattended for an hour then 480 to 600 gallons can flood your home.

In the city system many shutoff valves are located at or near the point where the water pipe from the city system enters the house, many time in the basement or crawlspace.   The pipe will be steel or copper, either three quarters of inch in diameter.   One way to size a pipe is to take a piece of string and wrap it around the pipe then measure the string length.

A half-inch pipe makes a string length of a little under 1.5 inches depending on your accuracy of measuring.  A three-quarter inch pipe results in a string length of a little under 2.5 inches.   Take the time with a piece of masking tape and mark them so in case others in the house have to call the repair guy when you are out golfing or skiing then they will know what the sizes are -- makes things easier in an emergency.

The cutoff valve will have a handle on it like the one on your outdoor spigot where you attach the garden hose.   It will probably be metal, round, and rippled for easy hand grip.  

Turning a valve -- there is a rhyme to never, never forget which way to turn a valve (or a screw or bolt even) and that is "right to tight, left to loose".

Right is clockwise when you are looking at the top of the valve.   Left is, well, counterclockwise.   Not hard.

Turn the valve handle clockwise (right) and you will see that it goes down and finally stops.   The valve is closed.   See? Just like watering your lawn.  

If you have completely frozen pipes, close that valve while waiting for the repair guy.   The water is not working anyway BUT if a pipe thaws while waiting then the leak and damage begins.

If you are diligent and have the focus to monitor your situation you can make things easier while waiting.   If only SOME of the pipes are frozen then they will stay frozen and not leak until some warming occurs so it is possible to still have water and be safe by using the cutoff valve as an on/off switch when the water needs to be used, whether flushing a toilet, washing, drinking or whatever.   Simply DO NOT FORGET to turn the valve off.

This is always true when you are away from the house or sleeping

Finally,for now, when you see that really cold weather is coming in be sure and fill five to ten gallon containers with water for a family of three for an eight hour period.  Remember -- if the weather is that bad it might be one or two days before a repair guy comes.

IN ANOTHER BLOG WE'LL DISCUSS INDIVIDUAL AREA SHUTOFF VALVES IN THE HOME THAT CONTROL AREAS AND WATER SOURCES SUCH AS SINKS AND TOILETS.
 
What the heck -- we're here.  Every sink an toilet SHOULD have shutoff valves underneath the item (for sinks look in the cabinets under the sink) but be more careful.  These vales are not as rugged as inline valves, so care should be taken when shutting them off.  When do you do that? Whenever a room gets so cold that the pipes might freeze.  Turn which way ? Right to tight (close) and left to loose (open).  Don't turn too far but  just until the valve is snug.  Then open the faucets to allow for expansion.  DO NOT flush the toilet.  that water can be used if the toilet is used, and in an emergency it can serve as a water source for anything other than drinking AND if four drops of household bleach are put in it it could be used for drinking.

Home maintenance in a Nutshell

Roof Stuff

1- Check the shingles of your roof each summer.  Although shingles are advertised as 20 year or longer the fact is that they are not.  If a shingle fails a simple test on a warm day then it is failing or has failed.  Next stop, wind damage and/or water leaks.

So, on a warm day, select a shingle or three, one at the edge of the roof, and at a couple of sites, and feel the shingle to make sure it is warm to the touch.  GENTLY lift the edge of it to see if the shingle flexes, or is it stiff and does it feel as if is brittle.  Now, look for cracks on the surface of the shingles overall.  Even though the shingles flex if the gravel coating is gone, or worn, and the tar-like surface of the shingle shows cracking (called gator skin because it looks like the scale pattern on an alligator) then the roof needs to be assessed fro replacement.

REMEMBER -- any roofer can tell you that “it needs to be redone” but knowing WHY that is true makes the transaction easier to understand.

Remember too that on the plains and in windy areas T-lock shingles are best and may be required by code.

What is “code”?.  that means the “code” or standard construction quality requirements for the area.  There is a Uniform Building Code used by many states which is adapted to a particular area.  The Regional Building Office is online.

2 - If a leak develops, don’t ignore it, no matter how small.  Do a visual inspection to locate the leak (usually a cracked or punctured shingle) and cover it with roofing tar from the hardware store.  A roof will warm in sunlight even on a cold (dark colors absorb heat remember?) and the application has to be done with room temperature tar and warm shingles. 

3 - Repairing shingles is a case-by-case matter.  If the shingle or area  is substantially damaged, and tar paper or wood can be seen (VERY BAD), then cover the area with some additional tar paper glued in place with roofing tar and call for an estimate and repair.  Unless you have done such a repair before, then the subtleties of overlap and water proofing can be tricky..

If the area is one or two shingles then the damaged shingles can be gently pried up, replacement shingles are then slipped UNDER the lower edge of the sound shingles, and everything is nailed in with a roofing nail every three inches around he replacement shingle edge but not across the bottom of the shingles.  The lower edge should be left loose but should be coated  liberally underneath and around the edges with roofing tar.

Remember that shingles are applied from the bottom to the top of the roof for overlap.  There should at least one inch of overlap unless specified otherwise by the manufacturer or by code.

Water systems

1 - Check outdoor spigots in the summer.  Does each one shut off shortly after turning it off?  REMEMBER most outdoor spigots are the so-called “No-freeze” type in this area.  The shutoff stem is recessed back into the pipe so that when the water is turned off all the water (a few tablespoons) in the pipe in front of the stem will drain out SO THERE SHOULD BE A FEW SPOONFULS OF WATER THAT DRAIN when the handle is turned off.  That is normal.

But if there is a steady drip several minutes later then that spigot can be pipe-breaker in the winter.  To replace the stem requires patience, a gentle touch, and shutting off the water system until the repair is done.  Replacement stem assemblies are available at hardware stores but a better idea is to pay 10 per cent more and go to plumbing supply company where the people have experience in replacing the assemblies.  They can be a great source of information  and tips on what to expect when replacing the stem.

2- All indoor valves should be checked periodically during the year, especially a few times in warm weather.

A lot of emphasis is placed on warm weather.  In cold weather nothing works well, adhesives won’t stick,  glues and other fluid based products are frozen or unworkable, and so on.

The indoor plumbing should be visually inspected for any evidence of water leaking.  WATER SYSTEMS SHOULD BE WATER TIGHT.  No leakage anywhere should exist.

If any evidence of water spotting is found do not assume it means a leak.  Test it.

Clean the water spotted area completely.  Place a towel or absorbent item where the water spot was and wait.  Check in it a few days.  If a leak exists then determine if the leak source is a hole in a pipe or a loose connection.  If it is a loose connection you have to decide if you want to tackle it your self or call a repair guy.  Always call a plumbing supply company and ask if there is a repair kit that can be used if a plumber is not to be called but remember that any repair kit application on a water system is a weak point in the system during cold weather so it has to be monitored.

3- How old is your water heater?  Is it gas or electric?  Do you ever hear a rumbling or growling sound when the water in it is being heated?

Okay -- water heaters don’t last forever.  Electrically heated units corrode from the inside due to the reaction between the heating coil and the water.  Minerals and metals dissolved in the water (especially if you are on a well) accumulate out of the water and settle to the bottom building sludge and crusting at the bottom.  Many units have an electrode that inserts into the tank from the top to keep ionization in the water from producing corrosive deposits but that electrode needs to be inspected and replaced.  They last about 60 months ( 5 years for those who forgot math) so talk to a supplier about replacing them.

In gas heated systems the gas heats the water from the bottom of the tank so when you hear that rumbling or growling sound you are hearing the deposits and crusting causing a “boiling” effect in the tank.  It is okay when it happens but it means that a deposit is building up.  While it is not good, it is not the sign that the unit has to be replaced.

Suggestion.  Turn off the circuit breaker to the water heater(see electrical section) turn off the water supply at the main valve (you should know where it is but see “while waiting for the repair guy).  At the bottom of the tank is a spigot that drains the heater. Connect a garden hose to the spigot and run the hose to a drain source such  as a sink, the outdoors, or a toilet.   WHEN THE WATER IS COOL gently open the valve and drain until the water seems more clear.  When satisfied close the spigot and then open the main valve and refill the tank.  Turn the power back on.

For gas heaters the procedure is the same but the pilot light should be turned off and lighted again after the tank is refilled.

4- Learn pipe sizes.  Pipes are usually in two sizes in a home -- 1/2 inch in diameter, and 3/4 inch in diameter (see “waiting for the repair guy”).  Sometimes there will be a one-inch pipe in the system but that will be primarily for the main line into the building. 

Remember that the pipes get progressively smaller as they get closer to the use source,  That is, the closer the pipes are to the sink or toilet or tub or whatever  the more likely it is that they are 1/2 inch pipes.

The reason has to do with a principle of physics that a fluid will increase in pressure when going from a larger pipe to a smaller one.  The reverse results in a loss of pressure.

Water capacity, by the way, should be 8 to 10 gallons per minute.  Test yours by simply filling a two gallon bucket while watching your clock.

This will be important under our healthy plant section that is under construction.

5 - Pumps.  If you have city water skip this part.  If you have a well pay attention.  Most wells in the area are deep enough that a push-pump setup has to be used.  Water is non-compressible, that is, it can be pushed easily because it does not compress like air or some solids do.  Has to do with the molecular structure of the hydrogen/oxygen configuration.  Anyway, water can be pushed so the pump is lowered into the well casing (pipe that lines the hole) and pushes water up and into the home.  They last from 10 to 20 years depending upon what quality you get but any one can give out before tits time.  When that happens you will slowly lose water pressure inyour home.  Replacement pumps are about $750 to $1000 but call around and keep a list of suppliers and the costs.

When it is time to replace the pump the well company may decline to use a pump that you purchased so again ,call around and make a list of who will and who won’t.

Replacement time depends upon depth but it is safe to assume about six hours.

6- Vacation preparation.  Folks, if you are going to be gone for any length of time, or if you are going on a trip during the winter then think about turning the water supply OFF before you go.  Open all spigots in the home after turning the main valve off and poor some antifreeze in the toilets.

If there is a cold snap, or if the power fails then all the pipes can freeze and do thousands of dollars in damage before anyone even knows.  Not nice to come home to.

7- Winter preparation.  There are various brands of heater tapes that are supposed to protect vulnerable pipes from the effects of cold weather and thus prevent freezing but they are not reliable.  The success of the heater tapes depends upon a lot of variables that are so numerous that it will ruin my wrists to try to type all of hem in here.  A few are that the heater tapes do not stay on as they should and shut on and off erratically so, while you are at work or sleeping, the pipes might freeze.  Not good news first thing in the morning.

another problem is that some pipes are mounted in the same shafts as that in which the exhaust pipe for the toilet system is mounted.  What that means is that during extremely windy cold snaps the cold air will be forced down the shaft and will defeat most heater tapes systems.  Once that happens the potential for a burst pipe in that wall is very real.

The list goes on as to types of failures but they all add up to one thing -- frozen and burst pipes.  A solution?  Well, this one you might not like but the safe way to address the problem since it is short term situation, is to have shutoff valves inside a removable panel so that the pipes in the affected area can be shut off and drained until the cold weather warms up.  This is not difficult and a lot less inconvenient than having no water for protracted periods.  If he problem is severe then a rerouting of the pipes is recommended.

ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT ALL EXTERIOR WATERING HOSES AR DISCONNECTED.  Otherwise a freeze will burst the pipe.  Coil hoses and store them in the garage of basement, and make sure that they are fully drained so that no ice forms in them.  If you have a water problem that hose can be a means by which to tap into the main water line for temporary access to water.

Remember that a toilet can be made to flush by simply pouring a gallon or two of water into the bowl.  The bowl and tank will not fill of course but the toilet won’t be full of  --- well you know.

Always keep a bucket of water handy.

Painting

1- The exterior of your house can benefit from being painted and at least touched up every other year.  It doesn't take that long.  First, take a paint sample to a pain department and have it matched.  Then buy a gallon of primer.  The extra step of using primer can make the paint last longer.  A piston -sprayer can be purchased at Harbor Freight for twenty dollars or less ( I bought one for $13.49).  That, along with   a wide (4”) and a couple of narrower ones and you can paint an entire wall in a couple of hours and that includes set p and clean up.

Water based exterior paint only.  Semi-gloss is good compromise for exterior surfaces.

By the way, when painting interior areas use gloss or semi-gloss.  Flat absorbs grease, water, and dirt out of the air and is not easy to clean and wash.  Use only gloss or semi-gloss in high moisture areas such as kitchens and bathrooms.

2-  Wash your house.  Sound silly BUT a power washer can remove dirt and dust that accumulates in crevices and on contours and it, too, only takes short time to do.

3- Keep a gallon of backup paint for all major areas to ensure a match but buy a one-gallon can.  The 5 gallon buckets are cheaper but after part of it is used then the paint inside skims over, and dries more quickly than if in a smaller can.

Well, this is under construction and there is a lot to write about so check in soon and if you have suggestions contact us at frontrangemgt@aol.com !!!!!!!

Until then, keep on hammerin’ . . .

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