5:36:00 PM EST
My New Best Friend
Entry 6: Russian Mission Blog
The People
Now I will introduce you to the people of Russia. As I wrote earlier, when I tell people that I travel alone in Russia, they are shocked at first. They have the impression that Russians are dangerous, hate Americans, steal everything I have, and are all in the mafia. Nothing can be further from the truth. Now be assured that if you wanted to find trouble, you could. The mafia is only located where there is plenty of money. And since most of the money is located in and around the large cities, the countryside is pretty much mafia free. Russians tend to be much harsher on their own than on their guests. When it is learned that I am an American, the tone of the situation/conversation changes.
When I was returning to Moscow in June 2006 from Tel’ch’e, I was riding on the overnight train. I boarded the car and headed to my berth. Each berth has 4 bunks, so the chance of a roommate is pretty good. When I got there, I noticed a military jacket, so I assumed that I would be traveling with a soldier. I was correct. A few moments later a young dour looking soldier walked in. We did the customary hellos and engaged in some equally dour small talk. After about 10 minutes he asked me what business I had in Moscow. I told him that I was heading home to the States. His eyes got real big and asked if I was really an American. I said yes and he told me that he could not believe he was sitting on a train with an American. The pitch of his voice went up a few notches and he said "Let me see your passport!", still not believing his ears. When I showed it to him, it was time to get the party started. First things first, time for a toast. Since I don’t drink vodka, he bought me a beer and himself a bottle of vodka (we were in the car with the bar). We toasted everything under the sun: friendship, Russia, America… He then called his brother, also military, and told him that he was sitting with an American on the train. I then had to get on the phone to prove it. The party then proceeded to the bar area where my new friend, Grisha, invited the entire car. Students, businessmen, and workers on the train were all in attendance. I was introduced to everybody like I was his best friend. Conversations from food to languages to politics dominated the evening. Russians are very passionate about all things in life, and some conversations, like politics would become quite heated. But in the end the conversation would end with a toast.
At about 2 am, my friend Grisha was starting his second bottle of vodka and I was still hanging on to my first beer. I was able to break free @3:30 am to lie down on my bunk. At 4:00 Grisha came in, turned on some Russian pop music, and passed out. If you have never heard Russian pop music, go online and check some out and you will see why I did not sleep the rest of the journey! After we arrived in Moscow, it was time to get off the train, but Grisha was out cold, and my bags were under his bunk. Our wagon conductor, a 6’ blonde, proceeded to try and wake up my new friend with shouting, shaking and a few right hooks to his jaw. Finally she got the MPs and they dragged my new best friend off the train. When I got off the train, there was Grisha between the two MPs. As I passed by, he invited me to a final toast.
Whether from a private in the army, a homemaker or a city official, such warm receptions are the norm. A guest is always made to feel welcome even in the poorest of homes or the strangest of situations.
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