Tom Kraeutler's Home Improvement Tips & Tricks

Flag Flying Tips for the 4th

Sat, 28 Jun 2008 20:37:04 GMT

As you prepare to bring out the stars and stripes for the 4th of July, here are a few tips to help ensure the honor of the flag and our nation’s independence with a careful, thoughtful display:

HANDLE WITH CARE: Always handle the flag carefully; it should not touch the ground or become worn or soiled.

UNION UP: The American flag should be displayed with the blue union up, except as a distress signal in times of dire emergency. So, if you fly your flag from a staff, make sure the union is stationed at the staff’s peak, and if the flag is displayed on a flat surface outside or inside the home, the union should be uppermost and to the flag’s own right─that is, to the observer’s left. One more thing: never use the flag as a wrapping or any other sort of decoration. That’s what red, white and blue bunting is for.

LIGHTS ON: Your flag should be illuminated at all times while on display, so if you leave it up at night, make sure a porch or street light is shining nearby. You can also install a sensor light that automatically comes on in the evening.

RAISE BRISKLY, STORE CAREFULLY: When hoisting the flag, raise it briskly. Lower it ceremoniously to a recipient’s waiting hands and arms, taking care that no part of it touches the ground or any nearby objects along the way. Then fold the flag neatly and carefully for storage.

NO ADS, PLEASE: The American flag should never be used for advertising or printed onto anything designed for disposal, like paper napkins or plates. It also shouldn’t be embroidered onto furniture, cushions or handkerchiefs, or worn as clothing. Flag pins, however, are absolutely okay, so long as they are displayed on the left lapel, nearest the heart.

DISPOSE WITH DIGNITY: If your flag becomes too worn for display, make sure to dispose of it properly. This can be done either by burning it in a dignified manner or through the assistance of your local VFW, American Legion, Knights of Columbus, Elks Lodge, or Boy or Girl Scouts.

Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com

Q + A: Mold in AC Unit

Wed, 25 Jun 2008 10:23:18 GMT

My son lives in Athens, Georgia, in an apartment complex that houses mostly college students. Since he moved in, he has been sick almost constantly with lung issues─up to and including coughing up blood! We recently found that the AC/heating unit in his apartment is covered in mold and mildew on the inside! Although they have come out and cleaned the unit, I think they need to do more than just cleaning the coils. Is that enough to get rid of the problem or are they just shoveling sand against the tide if they don’t treat the ductwork as well as the rest of the apartment?
Dani

Indoors and out, mold spores’ ideal landing pad is one with moisture, air and organic matter to serve as food. This combination of conditions can be found everywhere from furnishings to cardboard boxes, but as you and your son have unfortunately discovered, one of the biggest and most often overlooked havens for mold is the air conditioner, whether a portable or part of a central air setup. An air conditioner’s coil and everything around it is damp while the machine runs, and without adequate filtration, that’s a perfect invitation for mold to grow. Using a decent filter can make all the difference─that means a pleated filter with a MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) rating of at least 8, or 11 in the home of someone prone to allergies. If the air conditioner in your son’s apartment is a wall unit, its original filter would’ve had a MERV rating far lower than 8, so an immediate filter upgrade is in order.

Considering your son’s serious condition though, the best advice would be for him to move out. There’s no sense staying there if it is making him sick. Mold effects different people in different ways and if he is that sick, he needs immediate medical attention and a clean place to live, ASAP.

Tags: mold, air conditioner, tom kraeutler, the money pit

Q + A: Ridding Your Roof of Algae Stains

Fri, 20 Jun 2008 14:05:35 GMT

My 6-year-old roof has some nasty black staining that I believe is a moss or algae. Can you suggest a product to get rid of this and prevent it from returning? Also, is this a do-it-yourself project?
Mark F.
Westfield, NJ

Sounds like your asphalt shingle roof has been marked by blue-green algae or "moss", a typical phenomenon in areas with hot, humid summers. Removing this is certainly a DIY project as long as you have the proper gear to reach the affected area safely (depending on your roof’s pitch and design, a ladder or scaffold, along with extra rigging, will be required). To remove, you can either purchase a ready-made cleaning/antifungal solution at your local hardware store or home center, or make your own using one part bleach, three parts water and some tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) for extra cleaning action.

Before you begin, make sure to wet down any plantings around your home’s foundation in order to protect them from damage caused by the cleaning solution (even if you plan to cover them with tarps while you’re working). Then head for the roof and use a plastic garden pump sprayer to apply the solution to affected areas, letting it sit just as long as is specified by package instructions or, if you’ve made your own mix, 15 minutes. Then rinse it away using a garden hose (do not use a pressure washer, which can damage your shingles). If some stains remain, allow the roof to dry completely before making another pass with your cleaning solution. Also repeat the rinsing of those landscape plantings once you’re done with the job.

Tags: roof stains. roof moss, roof mold, tom kraeutler, the money pit

Q + A: How to Keep Your Home Safe While You’re Away

Fri, 13 Jun 2008 14:15:44 GMT

Our family has a few long trips planned this summer, and though our neighbors will be keeping an eye on things while we’re gone, I want to make sure our place is safe. Got a checklist of pre-vacation to-dos?
DCarlson 05-09-08 7:32 a.m.

Good question, especially as we approach a hot season for home burglaries that typically peaks in July and August. Here are the things you should attend to indoors and out before heading for Vacationland:

INSIDE

* If you’ll be away for a prolonged period of time, it’s smart to shut down your home’s water supply. Locate and turn off the main water valve, which is usually found on the front, street-facing side of a home’s lower level (it may be located in the crawl space; if it’s difficult to get to, a plumber can add an extension to put it within reach). If your landscape irrigation comes from the same line, arrange for a bypass valve to be installed so that watering can continue as usual.

* As step two of the water shutdown plan, drain all toilets and tanks.

* Turn off your water heater.

* To prevent electrical fires, switch off all non-essential electrical circuit breakers in your home’s electrical box (anything other than your heating system, security system, and outdoor lighting). Well before you’re under pressure to decipher which are which, take time to label circuits with small colored dot stickers, using green for nonessential and red for essential.

* Unplug all appliances, large and small.

* If you’ll be away for a weekend, set your air conditioner to 80 degrees; if you’ll be gone longer, shut it down entirely.

* In main living areas, put lights on timers to simulate occupancy.

* A burglar can easily be tipped off to your absence by an unanswered phone, so turn off the ringer and keepyour everyday answering message in play.

* Leave blinds and curtains in normal positions wherever possible, taking care not to expose belongings attractive to prying eyes.

* Stow valuables (important papers, jewelry, etc.) in a home safe or safe deposit box.

* Make sure your computer is turned off and disconnected from the internet, particularly if it contains personal information. Also put away or shred telltale bills and receipts that add to the risk of identity theft.

* Activate your alarm system, and be sure to notify the security company of your days away and provide interim contact information.

* Ensure that all windows and doors are securely locked (this may sound elementary, but all it takes is one of them ajar to welcome an intruder).

OUTSIDE

* Finish all major yard work before you go, with special trimming attention given to trees and shrubs near windows and entries (it doesn’t take much for a burglar to hide behind). Then put away all yard equipment and tools.

* Line up help for outdoor chores such as mowing and manual watering so that overgrowth and faded plantings don’t give away your absence.

* Put all outdoor lighting on timers, and add motion-sensitive lamps in dark pockets as well as natural pathways.

* Remove all “secret keys” from their supposedly undisclosed outdoor locations, providing only one of your duplicates to the person who’ll be in charge while you’re out of town.

* Have your house helper collect mail, parcels and newspapers daily.

* Invite a neighbor or family member to park their car in your driveway for the duration.
Inform your local police department of your plans so that they can add your home to their vacation watch list. Be sure to include contact information for both your interim caretaker and you while on the road.

Tags: burglary prevention, vacation protection, tom kraeutler, the money pit

Q + A: Solving Peeling Paint Problems

Fri, 06 Jun 2008 17:09:11 GMT

I painted my daughter’s bedroom using primer and then paint. Now it has become my son’s room, and there are spots where the paint just pulls off in long strips and looks like rubber. I want to repaint the room, but have no idea how to handle these areas. What can I do?
Laura

It’s pointless to simply paint over an issue like this, because your new finish won’t stick to layers and layers of bad paint. Instead, spend the time and effort to strip away all of the old paint so that you can smoothly brush on a long-lasting new coat.

There are several environmentally friendly, low-VOC stripping products on the market, including Ready-Strip Plus, which has a color-change feature that tells you when the old paint it’s applied to is ready to be removed.

After you’ve finished this step, repair and sand surfaces, and prime before painting with KILZ Odorless Primer. From there, you’ll be able to apply a new hue that’ll last until your next room redecoration project comes along.

Tags: paint, primer, KILZ, peeling paint, Ready Strip, Tom Kraeutler, The Money Pit

Q + A: Kitchen Remodel: Where to start?

Fri, 30 May 2008 10:11:32 GMT

We are planning a kitchen remodel but not sure where to start after the kitchen is gutted out. Do we start with the cabinets or do we do the flooring first?
fiveangelgirls

Way before you ever wield a sledgehammer, the best place to start is with a thorough, clear-eyed assessment of your kitchen’s current state and what features and functions you require in a remodel.

Kitchen design is a very specific art, so you’d also be wise to consult with a designer certified by the National Kitchen and Bath Association, who will have the know-how to create solutions that fit your budget as well as your lifestyle (and that includes keeping the actual remodel moving along so that you can get back to actually using your kitchen as soon as possible).

From there, what’s tackled first will depend on the extent of the remodel to which you’ve committed. Just take care not to create extra problems and expense with such whoppers as moving plumbing around and going into walls. And if your kitchen has “good bones,” capitalize on them with smart updates that make the most of your remodeling dollars.

Tags: kitchen remodel, kitchen design, tom kraeutler, the money pit

May is Time for a Deck Check

Tue, 20 May 2008 14:05:24 GMT

As Memorial Day weekend approaches, it is the perfect time to get outside and inspect your deck for signs of failure that could lead to a collapse. According to experts at the North American Deck and Railing Association (NADRA), the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) and Simpson Strong Tie, nearly 85 percent of homes in the U.S. have a deck, balcony or patio. It is estimated that 20 million of these decks nationwide are in need of repair or rebuilding.

Checking your deck now, especially before host a large gathering of family and friends, can help prevent injuries or worse. In the past ten years, there have been more than 800 reported injuries and 20 deaths as a result of deck collapses. In many cases the failing decks were built incorrectly, had not been properly maintained or were beyond their lifespan of approximately 10-15 years.

To evaluate the safety of decks, experts say homeowners should look for five warning signs that a deck is unsafe: loose connections (for example, a wobbly railing), missing connections (for example, the deck is just nailed, rather than bolted or screwed, to the side of the house), corrosion, rot and cracks. The two critical areas that typically contribute to a deck collapse are the railings and the deck’s connection to the house.

To assist homeowners in evaluating the safety of their deck, Simpson Strong-Tie has developed a deck edition of its “5 Steps to a Safer and Stronger Home” and a “Deck Framing Connection Guide.” The five steps include checking for the warning signs of an unsafe deck, knowing how weight and other forces affect the safety of a deck, ensuring the deck is built with a continuous load path, combating corrosion and knowing how to maintain a deck. The guide is designed to help those who are building a deck understand the critical areas of deck construction. For more information, or to download the Deck Guide and “5 Steps to a Safer and Stronger Home,” visit the Simpson Strong-Tie Web site.

Tags: decks, deck safety, wood decks, deck collapse, tom kraeutler, the money pit

Q + A: Disposing of Old AC Equipment

Fri, 16 May 2008 18:32:42 GMT

I have an AC condenser on the roof of my townhouse that I want to demolish to prepare for a new HVAC system. Can I simply disconnect the existing refrigerant lines and let the refrigerant dissipate into the air? The existing system was installed in the early ’90s, before we owned the house, so I’m not sure which refrigerant was being used.
Nash Hays
Washington, D.C.

The answer here is “absolutely not”! Not only will this move be dangerous for you, your neighbors and the already dwindling ozone layer, but you could get hit with a steep fine from the EPA (at up to $25,000 per day) as a result of ozone layer protection provisions in the Clean Air Act. Passed by Congress in 1990, this law prohibits the release of ozone-depleting refrigerants into the atmosphere during the service, maintenance or disposal of air conditioners and refrigeration equipment. And as of July 1, 1992, refrigerants must be recovered from such appliances before disposal.

Only a qualified professional with the right equipment should disconnect and dispose of your old AC condenser. Your local municipality, waste hauler, landfill management or scrap metal recycling company may be able to help, but if they aren’t, contact your city’s or county’s public works department and ask about home appliance recycling or CFC/HCFC (a.k.a. Freon) recovery programs. Local home appliance retailers or your HVAC contractor should also be able to give helpful direction to keep you and the environment safe.

Tags: air conditioning, tom kraeutler, The Money Pit

Q + A: Recycling Rechargeable Batteries

Fri, 09 May 2008 17:39:48 GMT

I’m cleaning out my workshop and have come across several orphaned rechargeable batteries. Are these recyclable like standard batteries?
DamonC 04-01-08 3:42 p.m.

Yes, they are, and there’s probably a drop-off location just minutes from your home. The Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation has established a network of collection points with national retailers, and all you have to do to find a local participant is visit www.call2recycle.org or call 1-877-2-RECYCLE. Old cell phones are welcome, too, and every item you bring in for recycling goes out to a state-of-the-art facility where the reusable contents are harvested for the production of stainless steel and new batteries.

Tags: rechargeable batteries, battery, cell phones, Tom Kraeutler, The Money Pit

Q + A: What Qualifies as Sustainable Wood?

Fri, 02 May 2008 13:33:56 GMT

How do I know if I’m getting truly green, sustainable wood flooring products?
1965daughtry 03-31-08 12:24 p.m.

The clearest signal is a Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification right on the packaging of the flooring in question. The FSC is a non-profit organization devoted to encouraging the responsible management of the world’s forests, and if you see its logo on a wood or paper product, you know that item has met strict forestry standards that ensure environmental responsibility, social benefit, and economic viability.

Other sustainable wood options include wood materials reclaimed from construction demolitions and other salvage situations, and/so with a little local research, you can find several options. Also consider such rapidly renewable options as bamboo and cork, which are beautiful, sustainable and durable alternatives to traditional hardwoods.

Tags: old growth, trees, forest, tom kraeutler, the money pit